American Cut is a take on steakhouse from acclaimed Chef Marc Forgione. There is no doubt that Marc Forgione is talented, gratifying us with amazing food in his eponymous restaurant, but also at Khe-Yo, an elegant Laotian place, also located in TriBeCa, where the food is as fantastic as the music is loud. I had American Cut on my list for a while and was excited to finally try it.
It is a modern place with an Art Deco feel and few elements reminiscent of classic steakhouses, such as the black leather banquettes. But it would stop there. At least, at American Cut, one can see the food and the atmosphere is not overly masculine. It is a large place with many rooms upstairs as well as downstairs, probably reserved for private parties or in case of an overflow of customers.
The menu is the part that is the most interesting: most of the dishes are a take on steakhouse standard ones and there are only few that remain classic. For instance, I had the crab cakes, one of my favorites appetizers in a steak joint. There, it is crusted with corn flakes, and served with a smoked onion remoulade and Charleston slaw.
The crab cake was good, but not exceptional. However, the slaw was great, the black sesame seeds contributing to give some Asian flavor. Now, what was most interesting was the ribeye. I usually order ribeye when I go to a steakhouse. This one, called The New York City Cut was a 20 oz bone-in ribeye that was rubbed in pastrami spices and smoked. With any meat, you can get a topping, so I went for bone marrow that was sublime.
I have seen more and more bone marrow served as an add-on in restaurants, my last experience being at STK, Midtown Manhattan; it is a menu item that I re-discovered at Noma last year and never hesitate to order since then. The meat was perfectly cooked medium-rare as requested, was juicy and deliciously fatty. What was interesting was that the taste had both the bold flavor of the ribeye and the particular flavor of pastrami. I found it interesting, although it would not replace a good ribeye. This was like a fusion with a classic deli dish, as was the spectacular biscuit served with a "butter" made with cream cheese, like a take on an everything bagel and cream cheese.
Or the latkes served as a side and made with chicken skin and sour cream (very addictive and highly recommended). These potato pancakes were crispy on the outside, similar to hash browns.
But if you prefer classic dishes, you can opt for the filet mignon that was very good, as well as the tater tots that were crispy on the outside and soft in the inside.
I should mention that they brought to the table their steak sauce that had a smokey flavor. but was not as good as the Bearnaise sauce we ordered.
For dessert, we hesitated a bit, their menu proposing quite few mouth watering choices. We finally went for the monkey bread tatin that was phenomenal. Served with honeycomb and a mascarpone ice cream, it was delightfully buttery and not too sweet, making it the perfect dessert to end the meal.
The food at American Cut was fairly good and quite unusual. It is one of these places that definitely showcases the creativity of the Chef, but where a one time visit suffices unless you want something different. Price wise, it is on the high range, as you not only pay for the location, but also for the name. Would I go back? Maybe for their burger that they serve at the bar and that I heard is delicious.
Enjoy (I did)!
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