Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

Please note that the meal was complimentary. However, the opinions expressed in my blog are 100% my own!  

Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

Paname, that means

Paris

in slang, is a French restaurant located Midtown East, opened a year ago by Chef Bernard Ros, a veteran of the New York food scene, known not only for his cuisine, but also his mentorship in the industry, helping people get jobs or training them, solely for the love of food. The adventure started in 1967, when Chef Ros came to Montreal for the World's Fair. He then decided to go visit New York...and never went back to France, working in many restaurants, before opening Meli Melo and then Paname.

Chef Bernard Ros of Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

Chef Bernard Ros with the "Marilyn Monroe's legs"

I spoke at length with him during my dinner at Paname and truly felt that he was more interested in making his customers pleased with the experience at the restaurant, serving them classic bistro dishes, reinvented, at low prices, creating a loyal clientele, instead of one time diners. 

dining room at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

Chef Ros goes everyday to the market to pick ingredients, putting an emphasis on the quality of the meat and seafood he will serve. If you go to Paname, you will definitely see him (he is there 7/7) going from table to table, to ensure everything is fine. 

dining room at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

Menu wise, you will find classics, but as I mentioned before, reinvented. For instance, there are escargots (snails), but not cooked the usual way, with garlic and butter. Also, everything is homemade, including the desserts, that can be a challenge for a Chef, but not for Bernard Ros, as you will see in this post.

We started our meal with an amuse bouche that was made with gorgonzola and a tomato coulis, a perfect combination. 

amuse bouche at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

Then, I tried few appetizers:

Tomato and mozzarella:

tomato and mozzarella at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

Grilled portobello mushrooms with mozzarella:

portobello mushrooms and mozzarella at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

Homemade pâté with cornichons:

Homemade pâté with cornichons at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

Homemade pâté with cornichons at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

Escargots de Bourgogne with Russet potatoes:

Escargots de Bourgogne with Russet potatoes at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

Escargots de Bourgogne with Russet potatoes at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

The first thing I noticed was the presentation and then, the originality of the escargot dish: it was definitely a different way of preparing escargot, like a twist to stuffed vegetables, a French classic, where the snails replaced the ground meat. On the plate were stuffed potatoes and zucchini.

Also, the pâté had this rustic taste, full of authenticity.

For entrees, I tried:

The paella Valenciana:

Paella Valenciana at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

You are right, it is a Spanish dish, but it seems that customers love this special, so it is often proposed. It was prepared with seafood (a lot, such as calamari, clams, shrimp and mussels), as well as chorizo and chicken. Delicious dish, very appetizing with all these vivid colors.

The sautéed cod fish à la niçoise with a tomato fondant:

The sautéed cod fish à la niçoise with a tomato fondant at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

I really liked it: the fish, sitting on top of smooth mashed potatoes, was perfectly cooked and topped with a sort of stew made with roasted tomatoes, peppers and a black olives (the 

à la niçoise

part of the dish) that was sublime, giving another dimension to the dish.

Last was the bouillabaisse, a fish stew that comes from the city of Marseille in the South of France, where I was born!

bouillabaisse at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

When the dish came to the table, it had this wonderful aroma and I could not wait to taste the broth that was delicious and very flavorful, perfectly seasoned. It was composed of mussels, clams, baby scallops, shrimp and cod, accompanied with a garlic aioli (on two pieces of toasted bread, as well as on a spoon, to mix with the broth)..

bouillabaisse at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

That was very good and very comforting, definitely a dish I would recommend, even in Summer time.

Then, it was time for dessert. At Paname, they have classic ones, such as crème brûlée, tarte tatin or mousse au chocolat. I did not eat the latter, but Bernard Ros, showed me how they served it and it was amazing: not served in the usual bowl, it was truly artistic.

mousse au chocolate at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

I tried the flourless chocolate cake that was probably one of the best I had so far. Prepared with some Valhrona bittersweet chocolate, it was dense and very chocolatey.

flour less chocolate cake at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

Last were the homemade crêpes, made with Grand Marnier and served with almonds.

crepes at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

The crêpes were thicker than what I am used to, making them a bit heavier. However, I truly appreciated that they put the right amount of alcohol and the added texture of the toasted almonds.

Last were cookies:

cookies at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

I should mention that I drank a glass (or two) of Côtes du Rhône with my meal.

Cotes du Rhone at Paname, French restaurant in New York, NY

The short walk after we left was welcome...Paname is a nice place to go to, simple and unpretentious, where the passion of its Chef and owner really reflects into the dishes. And with a $35 prix-fixe with an appetizer, entree and dessert, you cannot go wrong!

Enjoy (I did)!

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Masq: a taste of New Orleans in NYC, New York

I was recently invited for a press dinner at Masq, a New Orleans inspired restaurant located in Turtle Bay (Midtown East) that opened in March 2013. The owners, Nora and George Chaprastian, who are true New Yorkers, fell in love with New Orleans and decided to open a place to celebrate Louisiana cuisine in a setting that would feel like home, the restaurant being in the first floor of a townhouse.

Masq is short for Masquerade, and as soon as you enter in the restaurant, you can understand how the decor will be: you are greeted by a beautiful Mardi-Gras mask. There are in fact masks all over the place and they are incredible.

There is even a Mona Lisa represented there, adding a touch of humor!

The layout of the restaurant is interesting as the place has a sort of long shape, each room with a decor New Orleans inspired: first is the horseshoe shaped bar, made of white oak and decorated with multiple exposed-filament light bulbs:

There, I tried the Dark & Stormy cocktail, made with dark rum and ginger beer; this is the kind of cocktail that is dangerous because it does not have a strong alcohol taste and thus can be sipped like a soda...

Then the lounge, with its vintage fabric-upholstered chairs, antique oak and maple tables, a vintage velvet sofa and Persian rugs:

After walking through the lounge, is the dining room, decorated with an exotic New Orleans wall mural:

The last room in the back was the red room:

It is used for private parties (it can seat 45 people).

Before I talk about the menu at Mask, know that my experience of New Orleans cuisine dates from May 2006, when Jodi and I went there for a week vacation. I did not have the blog at the time, but, before going, we already made reservations or identified the places to go to: Emeril's Nola, John Besh's Luke, Mother's or Cafe Du Monde for the scrumptious beignets we ate everyday for breakfast. That is where I first tried jambalaya, crawfish étouffée and bread pudding.

It is in the lounge room that they setup our table.

At some point during the dinner, we got introduced to the Executive Chef Marc Getzelman and owner George Chaprastian (who is also the beverage director), who explained to us how the menu (New American inspired by New Orleans cuisine to be precise) was crafted, as well as gave us some interesting information about some of the dishes.

Executive Chef Marc Getzelman and owner George Chapastrian

So, here is what we ate:

The first dish was a Mac and Cheese croquette:

Like a lot of recipes, it started off by accident: there were some leftovers in the fridge and the Chef had this crazy idea to mold a croquette with it, using an ice cream scoop. He then added a roux, bacon and rolled it in panko bread crumbs before frying it. It was served with a spicy remoulade.

I really liked this dish: when you bite in it, you first experience the crunchiness of the croquette and then you hit the Mac and cheese that was gooey. They mentioned to us that the regular serving is three croquettes, that is perfect for sharing (we got smaller portions for all the dishes because it was a tasting).

I should mention that each dish was paired with a wine. For the mac and cheese croquette, it was a Franciscan Estate 2011 Chardonnay (Napa Valley):

The next dish was prosciutto and fig flatbread:

This is not what I would associate immediately with New Orleans. But you know what? This shows some diversity there! I liked it: the bread itself, homemade, was crispy, and there was a nice sweetness coming from the figs that counterbalanced well the tangy flavor of the arugula and the sharpness of the cheese.

They served the flatbread with Danzante Pinot Grigio 2012 (Italy):

After that came the crawfish étouffée:

As an anecdote, they did not plan this for the tasting menu, until they heard that a French blogger was coming. So they swapped it against an Asian salmon. I admit that I was pleased to have the opportunity to try it, because it is definitely a dish associated with New Orleans. The difficulty there was to have enough crawfish, the supply not being abundant.  But here were we with a nice dish in front if us. It was pretty good, a nice kick and some heat building in the back of my throat.

The wine served with this dish was a Venezia Giulia 2012 Sauvignon Blanc from Italy:

Then we got the Po'Boy.

There were two kinds: shrimp.

And catfish.

I preferred the shrimp one for sure: nice piece of shrimp, crispy and tasty. The bread, homemade, was a sweet Hawaiian roll. It was served with some coleslaw that was very good, with a touch of fennel for an added crunch.

The wine paired with the Po'Boy was a 10 Span 2012 Pinot Noir from Santa Barbara County.

The last entrée was the jambalaya.

I was also looking forward for this dish. It was composed of andouille sausage, Cajun spice chicken, shrimp and rice. As you can see on the photo, they have goat cheese on top; it is used to cut down the heat from the dish and I have to say that it worked perfectly, the taste of the cheese being quite discreet and not overshadowing at all the other ingredients. 

The jambalaya was served with an Alamos Malbec 2012 (Argentina):

Last was the long awaited dessert! It was a Sabayon:

Sabayon, also spelled Zabaione, is an Italian dessert made of egg yolks, sugar, and a sweet wine. It was served with berries.

And paired with Sambuca:

Again another dish that I did not associate with New Orleans, but let me tell you: I was glad they served it! It was so good that I could have eaten few of them. Not too sweet and light, it was a nice alternative to what could have been a boring fruit salad.

I liked my dinner at Masq: the food was good and comforting, transporting me miles away from New York for a moment. They have a large menu with some mouth watering dishes spanning between New Orleans and New American cuisine, that can satisfy any palate. And if you go there, do not forget: Il faut laisser le bon temps rouler as they say in New Orleans! 

Enjoy (I did)!

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And Remember: I Just Want To Eat!

Please note that the meal was complimentary. However, the opinions expressed in my blog are 100% my own!

Tabélog US event at Jukai, Japanese restaurant Midtown East, NYC, New York

Last week, I went to an event hosted by Tabélog US, the largest Japanese restaurant review website, to celebrate their new design. 

Courtesy of Tabélog

The statistics are new and can give you an idea of the different cuisines the user on Tabélog US experiments. 

 

The event took place at Jukai, a Japanese restaurant located Midtown East. The name of the restaurant comes from the deep forrest in the bottom of Mt Fuji.

Clearly, to find that place, you need the address as it is below street level, like an hidden gem. As this was an event, I cannot describe its atmosphere or service, although the latter was perfect considering the place was full of bloggers trying to take pictures as dishes from Chef and owner Hirofumi Watanabe were served. Know that the dishes you will see below were prepared specifically for this event.

Present at the event were Takehiro Miyajima, CEO of Tabélog Inc. as well as Taku Niida, Assistant Sales Manager New York Branch of Asahi Beer USA, Inc., who sponsored the event.

The beer presented was the Asahi super dry beer that I drank with my meal.

The first plate served to us was an assortment of dishes beautifully put together:

Going from the left to the right, there was:

Squid with sea urchin:

Pickled mushrooms and egg omelette with spinach:

Pickled onion:

Smoked duck:

Iberico ham and persimmon fruit:

This was a perfect mise en bouche! My favorite was the duck that was fantastically smokey. Then the squid with its slightly crunchy texture (it was raw). Also, pairing the persimmon with the Iberico ham was a nice Asian interpretation of the cantaloupe - ham traditional pairing, delicately merging the sweet taste of the fruit to the saltiness of the ham.

The next dish was beef carpaccio:

I believe that the beef was Wagyu, later used in the shabu shabu they proposed. It had a nice marbling and was perfectly seasoned. 

After that, was served one of my favorite dishes of the event: Salmon marinated in sake.

The salmon was grilled, perfectly cooked and moist with a fantastic char taste. It was served with a grilled Shishito pepper that is a green pepper similar to serrano peppers.

After the salmon, came another fish: Spanish Mackerel with ground radish.

It was ok for me, the fish having a quite strong flavor.

Then came something unexpected:

This was a Jumbo Pacific oyster from Washington State. I guess the "jumbo" preceding the name was quite appropriate considering that it was the largest I ever see, the shell being the size of my hand! Just compare it to the slice of lemon to give you an idea! It was a bit of a challenge to eat, especially with chopsticks, but the taste was fabulous and you could definitely taste that it was fresh. I knew jumbo shrimp, now I know jumbo oysters...

To drink with the oyster, I chose a glass of Hanaabi Junmai Daiginjo sake that left, surprisingly a strawberry aftertaste that was sweet and acted like a palate cleanser.

The last dish served was shabu shabu, a Japanese dish where vegetables and beef are cooked in a broth. They first brought the vegetables:

And the Wagyu beef that had a nice marbling:

Then, they started to cooked the vegetables:

When they were ready, they added the beef:

Once the beef and vegetables were cooked, they put them in a bowl and added a sauce made with oil, sesame, balsamic vinegar that added some flavors to the dish. Et voilà!

I liked it, although few pieces of beef were overcooked. It was very flavorful and comforting.

Then it was time for dessert, or shall I say desserts!

 There were three of them. A Crème brûlée that was perfectly made, with a crispy caramelized crust on top and a well set vanilla cream:

A white sesame blanc-mange that was similar to a custard:

This was my favorite dessert: nice texture, light with the sesame taste coming through, it was not too sweet. In fact none of the desserts were.

The last dessert was chocolate truffles:

These were nice and soft, similar to the truffles you would find in France. Although there, people like to put a bit of alcohol and here, at Jukai, I did not taste any alcohol.

It was a great event! Thanks to Tabélog, Asahi and the Jukai team for hosting us!

Enjoy (I did)!



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And Remember: I Just Want To Eat!

Please note that this meal was complimentary. However, the opinions expressed in my blog are 100% my own!

Dinner at Tulsi, Indian restaurant in Midtown East, NYC, New York

Recently, we were invited to Tulsi, an Indian restaurant located Midtown East. I quickly discovered that it was not your average Indian restaurant! First is the team in the kitchen, composed of:

•  Executive Chef Hemant Mathur who is also co-owner. Chef Mathur has an impressive resume, working in restaurants such as Dévi (awarded a Michelin one-star rating in 2007 and 2008), Tamarind in Tribeca, as well as Bukhara  in the Maurya Sheraton Hotel in New Delhi, India. 
• Tandoor Master, Dhandu Ram, who also worked at Bukhara in New Delhi, where he met Hemant Mathur.
• Executive Pastry Chef Surbhi Sahni, who is also the wife of Chef Mathur, known for her incredible dessert creations, such as her Ginger Panna Cotta that was nominated one of the “Best Restaurant Desserts for 2011” by Esquire.

Then I got to meet with Vijay Rao, who is co-owner and we were taken care of by the General Manager Suneel Devgan who did a wonderful job hosting us.

The second hint that Tulsi (meaning "Holy Basil") was different was the menu: clearly not your regular one! For instance, I could not find any Chicken Tikka Masala, that is one of my favorite dishes. Instead, they serve the savory banana dumplings, sea scallops with Manchurian cauliflower & eggplant chutney or lamb chop with south Indian potatoes and peach chutney. Clearly, some mouth watering dishes and I was excited to see what we would get served!

The last important characteristic of this place is its decor: modern, elegant, but not stuffy. When you enter, you end up in the bar area (nice green lighting) with its small lounge.

Then there is the dining room.

We went early because it is the best time to take photos of a restaurant and at that time, we were the only ones, but several minutes after, people started coming and this long table you see was for instance full of patrons avid to taste that food. 

We got seated in one of the "booths" that they setup, giving the impression of privacy to customers, especially those who did not understand that the only separation between them and the next table was a thin curtain.

To start off, I ordered a mango lassi.

Not too sweet and smooth, it was the perfect drink to prepare my palate and eliminate some of the heat few dishes had.

We started off with the appetizers. First, came some street food or chaat:

The first one was Avocado Jhal Muri:

It was made of puffed rice, avocado, red onion for a nice kick and vermicelli noodles. It was delicious: a bit crunchy, thanks to the rice and red onion, and smooth, because of the avocado.

The second one was Papadi chaat:

It was refreshing, with a sweet and savory taste, but I was expecting it to be a bit crunchy and did not really like the texture.

Then, we tried the Manchurian cauliflower:

I tried this dish at The Masala Wala few months ago and was thrilled to have it again. It was fantastic with its sweet and sour taste and a bit of crunch, definitely reminding me of Chinese cuisine. It was Jodi's favorite dish of the evening.

The second appetizer was Haryali chicken tikka:

The chicken, cooked in a tandoor oven was incredibly moist, tender, flavorful and had this nice char all around. I admit that I had difficulties not finishing that dish (it was only the beginning). I am often disappointed by chicken tikka because the meat tends to be dry, but it was definitely not the case there. The pieces of chicken were sitting on top of a delicious tomato chutney that gave an additional dimension to the dish.

The last appetizer was Dilli wali Aloo tikki:

These potato cakes were made, besides potatoes, of yellow split peas, cashews and raisin stuffing. It was my least favorite of the appetizers, being slightly blend if not eaten with the sauce that went with it.

At that point, I ask for a sweet lassi:

It was not as thick than I am used to and had the perfect amount of sweetness.

Then came the entrees. The first one was their signature dish: savory banana dumplings.

These dumplings were stuffed with figs and cashew, smothered in a very good sauce that was creamy and reminded me of the tikka masala sauce. It had an interesting texture that was the result of having figs in it, giving the same sensation as when you eat dried figs. The quinoa was a nice addition, having a bit of cumin in it, a flavor I do not remember having experienced in Indian food yet.

Then came another of my favorite dishes: tandoor grilled lamb chops.

It was a great dish: the lamb was perfectly cooked, with some areas covered with this nice char that I love so much in grilled meat. It was tender and flavorful, the perfect dish if you love lamb. It was served with South Indian potatoes and a nice plum chutney that added a wonderful sweetness to the overall dish.

We also tried the Mangolorean Chicken Curry that was quite spicy, but delicious with a moist chicken that I had difficulties not to eat, despite my mouth on fire:

And some Indian cottage cheese with spinach, similar to Palak Paneer:

That we ate with plain basmati rice:

as well as plain parantha and rosemary garlic naan breads that were very good and fresh.

At that point, I started to get full, but could not resist to try their desserts and was so pleased to see them bringing their Indian bread pudding!

Nice creation considering that bread pudding is not common in Indian cuisine! It was made of brioche bread that was soaked in what I believe was a sugar syrup and covered with some sort of condensed milk and nuts. That was spectacular and we definitely finished the plate! It was definitely sweet, but so good! I wish I had the recipe (wink wink!).

The second dessert was their pistachio kulfi:

It was a delicious ice cream with a subtle pistachio taste that became more prominent when reaching the middle of the pyramid, where a layer of it was present.

To help digest this feat, I ended up getting a Chai tea...

We had a good time at Tulsi: great food and great service for sure. I would definitely come back to that place to try some other dishes. They really succeeded in crafting a fantastic unusual Indian menu.

Enjoy (I did)!

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And Remember: I Just Want To Eat!

Please note that I was contacted directly by the restaurant or a PR and that the meal was complimentary. However, the opinions expressed in my blog are 100% my own!

Another visit at Le Relais de Venise in NYC, New York

I am back at Le Relais De Venise, one of my favorite steak places in New York! I love the concept: they have a prix fixe menu for $26.95 (at the time of this post) where you get steak frites and a salad. There is no other food and you can only order alcohol, desserts (nice selection), tea and coffee. At least, there is no waiting for anybody to decide what they want!

This menu and concept is identical in all three locations: the original in Paris (opened in 1959), that I visited last winter, the one in London, that I saw when looking for what was supposed to be the best fish and chips in town and the one in New York.

What I did not notice in the one in New York last time, were the paintings on the wall representing scenes of Venice (well it is called Le Relais de Venise after all!). Go figure, in a French restaurant! The explanation is simple: the original original restaurant used to be an Italian restaurant and the owner left the decor as is, keeping the name.

The way it works is that they ask you for the temperature of the meat. It can be cooked blue (rare is already pretty red as you will see on a photo later, so blue? Do they bring the cow on the table at that point???), rare, medium and well done. To remember who wants what, they will map the table on the paper table cloth and write the customer's choice on it.

Then, they bring you a green salad with walnuts.

I admit that it was a bit overdressed...

Then, there is a first serving of meat and fries. Yes, you read well: a first serving, meaning that there is a second one. But do not worry, it is not like a Man vs. Food challenge where they will serve you a huge amount of food! The servings are reasonable and the two will be close to what a regular serving would be in a brasserie. While you wait, you see the staff carrying the trays containing the fries and meats cooked at different temperature, the most impressive one being the stack of fries (no, this was not one portion!)!  So, I got my first serving, asking for the sirloin steak to be rare.

And the second serving.

That time, I asked for some sauce on the fries! Like disco fries without cheese... The meat, sliced, was cooked perfectly and of good quality. I loved the sauce (it is a secret recipe) that was rich, slightly creamy and slightly salty. And with the fries, that was definitely delicious, softening the fries and pairing perfectly (as you can see they put lots of sauce the second time...).

Then was dessert! I did not pick Le vacherin du relais, one of their signature desserts, that I tried the last time I came here and also in Paris: it is a huge and very sweet dessert and at that point I started to be full. I preferred going for something "lighter" and cold, because, similar to my previous visit, it was warm in the restaurant. Therefore, I went for the Praline Liegeois.

It is a praline ice cream (very creamy) with whipped cream. Praline being one of my favorite ice cream flavors, I inhaled it!

I was also able to try the profiteroles that are made on the premises.

It was fantastic! The chocolate sauce was divine: made with dark chocolate, it was not too sweet and really had a great chocolate taste, not diluted, that completely bathed the profiteroles!

Steak frites is a brasserie and bistro standard. Having a place specialized in it, you can expect that they will make it good and I think that Le Relais de Venise delivers: great fries (soft inside and crispy outside with a nice golden color), delicious meat (sirloin, perfectly cooked) and fantastic secret sauce (people are still trying to figure out how it is made, some hinting that there might be chicken liver in it!). Know that there you cannot make reservations and, the last time I went, I noticed a lot of families.

Enjoy (I did)!

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And Remember: I Just Want To Eat!