Empellon Taqueria in New York, NY

Empellon Taqueria in New York, NY

As we were craving Mexican food, we decided to go to Empellon Taqueria, located in the West village; a place whose staff has definitely a sense of humor...

Empellon Taqueria in New York, NY
Empellon Taqueria in New York, NY

Big place with beautiful mural on the wall.

dining room at Empellon Taqueria in New York, NY

That day, they were hosting a birthday party and I did not had time to have a look at the menu crafted for the event, but noted that this could be a good place for a group meal. 

guacamole at Empellon Taqueria in New York, NY

To start, we went for the guacamole and chips.

guacamole at Empellon Taqueria in New York, NY

The guacamole was definitely freshly made as could attest the chunks of avocado, chopped onions or fresh cilantro. 

guacamole at Empellon Taqueria in New York, NY

I truly appreciated the fact that they put the jalapeño on top, so if one does not like it, it is easy to remove them. 

tortilla chips at Empellon Taqueria in New York, NY

It was perfect: well seasoned, served with delicious tortilla chips. 

For her entrée, Jodi ordered the mixed mushroom tacos (she chose to get two instead of three, that are the two sizes proposed). 

mushroom tacos at Empellon Taqueria in New York, NY

This was a delicious dish that I recommend if you love mushrooms, because they put a lot of it and it is not mixed with any sauce or ingredients that would overpower the entire dish, letting the mushroom be the star. 

mushroom tacos at Empellon Taqueria in New York, NY

On my side, I was first set for tacos, but changed my mind when I saw that they were serving a churro French toast. Yes, you read that right and I was sure the combination of a churro and a French toast would be divine: I was not mistaken. 

Churro French toast at Empellon Taqueria in New York, NY

First of all, it was a perfect French toast: the bread that was like a brioche or challah was perfectly soaked, and the churro created a crust that was delightfully crispy. It worked so well that I did not need to add any butter and maple syrup. 

Churro French toast at Empellon Taqueria in New York, NY

This was a fantastic brunch there, all the dishes being very good and the service perfect. I am still ecstatic about the churro French toast that I definitely recommend. I will definitely go back as I saw some tacos I definitely want to try. I really enjoyed: oh yes I did! Sorry, I just drooled all over my computer...

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Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

Please note that the meal was complimentary. However, the opinions expressed in my blog are 100% my own! 

Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

There are so many Thai restaurants in New York, that I was a bit skeptical when I received an invitation from Kao Srisuphasiri, one of the owners of Larb Ubol, a Thai restaurant located in the bottom part of Hell's Kitchen. Even there, that restaurant is surrounded by other ones serving Thai food. I soon understood why Larb Ubol is original. 

Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

Well, like many Thai places, you do not go there for the decor and they admit that they prefer putting the money on the food as this is the reason why customers come back. Entering in the restaurant, you immediately notice the big empty space at the entrance: at this point, they are not really sure what to put there, whether a plant, fountain or tables. For the moment, it is nice because it does not feel too crowded. 

dining room at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

The decor is very simplistic: 

banquettes and chair backs are covered with Thailand’s traditional checkered pha khao ma cloth used to fashion everything from sarongs to hammocks

. On the ceiling and walls, some small umbrellas coming from Thailand:

umbrellas at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

So, it was clear that we were there for the food, and we made sure we tried several dishes prepared by Chef Ratchanee Sumpatboon, who worked for 20 years in New York City, in well known restaurants, such as Zabb Elee. Her menu is Isan cuisine, from the North East of Thailand, characterized by its heat, chili peppers being prominent, as well as sticky rice, used as we would bread.

sticky rice at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

Looking at the menu, I immediately noticed the absence of the massaman or penang curry I am used to seeing in Thai restaurants, the only well known dishes being Pad See ew or Pad Thai. I guess that is where Larb Ubol is different. So, it was time to check it out!

To start our feast, we ordered a Thai beer (Singha):

singha beer at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

As well as Thai iced tea that was perfect to cool me from the heat of the dishes.

Thai iced tea at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York
Thai iced tea at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

To start, we ordered a couple of appetizers. First was the Larb, a spicy ground meat salad that gave its name to the restaurant (Ubol comes from the city of Ubon Ratchathani where the Chef grew up).

Nuer Larb at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York
Nuer Larb at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

We had the following choices for the ground meat: chicken, pork, beef, veggie duck...We went for beef (

Nuer Larb

). It was good, but spicy and I loved mixing the spicy meat with the refreshing cucumber or mint leaves. I liked it so much that I kept going at it.

Then, I tried the grilled chicken liver skewer (

Tub Yang

), served with a tamarind dipping sauce:

Tub Yang at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

If like me, you like chicken liver, this dish is for you. I admit that it was a bit dry, but the tamarind sauce did its magic, making it a very enjoyable appetizer.

The next dish was Peek Kai Tod or marinated chicken wings, served with a sweet chili sauce:

Peek Kai Tod at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

I thought it would be spicy, but it was not the case at all: the sauce was on the sweet side and was perfect with the moist chicken wings. Good dish for bird lovers.

Then, we had the Pukk Boong Fai Dang or sautéed morning glory with fresh chili:

Pukk Boong Fai Dang at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

I do not think I ever had morning glory before. It looks like this:

morning glory at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

I enjoyed the dish, but should have ordered it with crispy pork as I am not too much of a vegetarian. The morning glory tasted a bit like spinach, maybe a bit less bitter.

Then was the Chicken Pad Ped:

Chicken Pad Ped at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

It is one of their Chef's special, composed of chicken, Thai eggplant, bell pepper, basil, wild ginger and drenched in a spicy curry paste. I should add the large quantity of peppercorn...

Chicken Pad Ped at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

After one bite, my mouth was literally on fire and I was glad I had the sticky rice and Thai iced tea to cool down!

I also ate some Pad See Ew that helped against the heat:

Pad See Ew at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

We went for the tofu version that was very good.

Last was dessert: we ordered the fried ice cream.

Fried Ice Cream at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

I always find fried ice cream to be an interesting dessert: who got this idea to fry ice cream? 

Fried Ice Cream at Larb Ubol, Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, NYC, New York

This was a very addictive dessert, the vanilla ice cream pairing well with its shell that was slightly crispy and deliciously sweet.

This was a very good dinner and I am glad I had the opportunity to try a different cuisine. Larb Ubol is definitely unique and stands out from the traditional Thai restaurants. Would I go back: certainly. But this time, I'll ask for non spicy dishes...

Enjoy (I did)!

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Taste of Asia 2014: Huaiyang cuisine cook off!

image of Taste of Asia 2014 in Times Square

I was recently invited by the Epoch Times to attend the final cook off of Taste Of Asia, a collaborative project between the Epoch Times and New Tang Dynasty (NTD) Television part of a celebration of Asian Restaurant Month. During that month, several famous Asian restaurants in New York such as Junoon, Kittichai or Prime & Beyond, offer a prix-fixe menu or special deals. 
image of Taste of Asia 2014 in Times Square

So you understand what the invited part means, let me explain: this is a free event, open to everybody, where you can attend some of the workshops to learn, for example, how to make Chinese and Korean hand-pulled noodles, mochi or dumplings (in fact there was even a dumpling eating contest).

You will also find many booths proposing Asian cuisine, such as Nyonya, a Malaysian restaurant.
image of Nyonya Malaysian restaurant in New York, NY

I have tried their chicken curry with pickled vegetables and it was fantastic, a bit spicy, but so good, the pickles adding a refreshing part to the dish.
image of chicken curry in Nyonya Malaysian restaurant in New York, NY

Nyonya
199 Grand St
New York, NY 10013

No, the most important part of the invitation was the possibility to try some of the dishes that the Chefs were cooking during the cook off. So it all started when our hosts presented the Chefs:

image of Kean Wong and Jenny at Taste of Asia 2014: Huaiyang cuisine cook off

On the left is Kean Wong, host at NTD Television and producer of the movie Free China, The Courage to Believe. On the left, Jenny,  anchor of Global Watch and also the Hostess of Time with Fang Fei on NTD Television.

First was Chef Ueda Tadayoshi from Japan:
image of Chef Ueda Tadayoshi at Taste of Asia 2014: Huaiyang cuisine cook off

Chef Tong Yuncai from the US:
image of Chef Tong Yuncai at Taste of Asia 2014: Huaiyang cuisine cook off

Chef Zhang Jun from Germany:
image of Chef Zhang Jun at Taste of Asia 2014: Huaiyang cuisine cook off

The jury was composed of Chefs as well as Akiko Katayama, a food writer that you may have seen as a guest judge on Iron Chef America on the Food Network.
image of Jury at Taste of Asia 2014: Huaiyang cuisine cook off

The Chefs had 45 minutes to cook dishes inspired from the Huaiyang cuisine, known for its delicate taste and demand on technique. I got to sample three of them:

Braised dried tofu shred from Chef Ueda Tadayoshi from Japan:
image of braised dried tofu shred at Taste of Asia 2014: Huaiyang cuisine cook off

Similar dish from Chef Tong Yuncai from the US, but with shrimp:
image of braised dried tofu shred at Taste of Asia 2014: Huaiyang cuisine cook off

Based on the taste, I believe that the shrimp were dried, having a bit of a fishy taste. I definitely preferred the first one from Chef Ueda Tadayoshi.

The next dish I tried was sweet and sour swordfish from Chef Ueda Tadayoshi:
image of sweet and sour swordfish at Taste of Asia 2014: Huaiyang cuisine cook off

The bright color of the dish was spectacular, as was the dish, that had a nice sweetness and crispiness also; the only negative being the bones...

I did not try any other dishes, but was waiting for the judges to declare the winner. First, each of the contestants had to face the jury:
image of jury and contestant at Taste of Asia 2014: Huaiyang cuisine cook off
Chef Ueda Tadayoshi (Japan) and the jury
image of jury and contestant at Taste of Asia 2014: Huaiyang cuisine cook off
Chef Tong Yuncai (US) and the Jury
image of jury and contestant at Taste of Asia 2014: Huaiyang cuisine cook off
Chef Zhang Jun (Germany) and the Jury
I am sure the Chefs were impatient to know the result, so was the audience. Few minutes after deliberation, it was time to discover whose cuisine reigned supreme. But it was not announced like that, after reading the name of the winner on the microphone.
image of deliberation at Taste of Asia 2014: Huaiyang cuisine cook off

It was written in Shūfǎ or Chinese calligraphy.
image of deliberation at Taste of Asia 2014: Huaiyang cuisine cook off

And the winner was:
image of Chef Ueda Tadayoshi (Japan) at Taste of Asia 2014: Huaiyang cuisine cook off
Chef Ueda Tadayoshi (Japan)
image of Chefs at Taste of Asia 2014: Huaiyang cuisine cook off
Second was Chef Tong Yuncai (US) and third, Chef Zhang Jun (Germany)
It was great to see the competition and try some of the dishes (I am glad I liked the one from the winner, Chef Ueda Tadayoshi). I think this event is a perfect way to learn few things about Asian cuisine. Thank you to The Epoch Times for giving me the opportunity to attend!

Enjoy (I did)!

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Brunch at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

Please note that the meal was complimentary. However, the opinions expressed in my blog are 100% my own!

Brunch at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

I do not know how many times I passed by SOB's, but I truthfully thought it was just another club that entertained many for more than 25 years. Until I received an invite to come and try it. This venue that can accommodate up to 450 people is huge and composed of different sections:

Brunch at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

The bar area:

bar at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

With its table football that was there especially for the World Cup.

table football at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York
table football at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

Its large dining area with a stage where they play music for patrons who either want to eat, drink or dance.

dining room at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

In fact, during our brunch, there was band playing some Brazilian songs.

stage at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

I admit that when they arrived on stage, I was thinking that it will probably be loud and annoying as I like to enjoy my meal in a atmosphere where I can talk to my wife without screaming. It was perfect, being more in the background; the acoustic was fantastic and the band was very good.

caipirinha at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

They brought us the brunch menu that, for $31, includes unlimited sangria (red or white), an appetizer, an entree and a dessert. I was more inclined to try a caipirinha, Brazil's national cocktail made with  cachaça, sugar and lime.

caipirinha at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

I truly appreciated the fact that it was not too sweet and well balanced, with a nice quantity of lime in it.

caipirinha at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

At the same time, they brought us a bread basket:

bread basket at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

It was composed of a small croissant, bread, corn bread and of course, some cheese bread or pao de queijo (I love it):

cheese bread at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

Then of course was the food. The menu, crafted by Chef Jorge Lima is latin, not only Brazilian.

Chef Jorge Lima at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

So we started with the appetizers. We went for the butternut squash soup with toasted pumpkin pepitos and crème fraiche:

Butternut squash soup at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

It was very good, with a nice sweetness from the butternut that worked perfectly with the crème fraiche (I just wish there was more of it).

The second appetizer was the empanadas:

empanadas at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

One was made with cheese:

cheese empanadas at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

The other one with some spicy beef:

beef empanadas at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

Both were good and I could not decide which one I liked best. The shell was delightfully crispy and flaky. Dipped in their spicy red pepper sauce, it was divine!

red pepper sauce at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

Let me tell you: this sauce was very hot, but so good, that I could not resist dipping the empanadas in it.

Then, Jodi got the fish tacos:

fish tacos at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

It is like a do-it-yourself version of it, made with pan-fried tilapia served with chopped greens, fresh tomatillo salsa, avocado relish and sour cream. The fish was perfectly cooked, slightly crispy and not greasy and at some point, I did not care about the tortilla and just ate it with the different components it was served with. It is a great dish.

But, the specialty I was thrilled to try at SOB's is the feijoada:

feijoada at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

It is Brazil's national dish made with pork ears and tail, dried beef and black beans (

feijão

is the Portuguese for "beans"). Yes, I was thrilled to eat it because I first tried it in April at a restaurant called Bolinha in São Paulo. It was also served with rice, collard greens (surprisingly delicious as I tend to find them too bitter), a slice of orange and manioc flour. Was it close to what I tried in Brazil? Yes, Although Chef Jorge Lima told me that he is trying to recreate it with the ingredients he can find here. And I am sure anyway that everyone has its own recipe. What I can tell you is that it was very good and comforting: the meat was very tasty (they had a generous amount of it) and I liked mixing the different components together.

You are probably wondering at this point if we were still hungry. Well, not really, but we could not leave without trying some desserts! We tried:

The flan:

Flan at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

And the empanadas with chocolate and banana:

banana and chocolate empanadas at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

My favorite was the flan: dense, it was prepared with condensed milk, like in Brazil. This is definitely a dessert I recommend. The empanada? It was just ok: I thought that there was not enough filling and that it was not heavenly spread, only one bite (photo below), having a nice amount of chocolate.

banana and chocolate empanadas at Sounds Of Brazil SOB's in NY, New York

This was a fantastic brunch and surprising: I would have never thought about going to SOB's for lunch or brunch. Would I go back? Hell, yeah!

Enjoy (I did)!

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My trip to Europe: Gelato in Florence, Italy

Gelateria in Florence, Italy

You cannot go in Italy and not eat Gelato! We had gelato probably every day, but not at Eataly that was there, Via dei Martelli.

Eataly in Florence, Italy

And not in the multiple gelateria we saw while walking in the street, some of them with a spectacular presentation...

Gelato in Florence, Italy

One of the gelateria we found was in the opposite side of Eataly. It was called Caffè Del Battistero.

Caffè Del Battistero in Florence, Italy

There, we simply ordered our flavors and the guy serving us (I wonder if he ever smiled in his life), gave us a huge gelato that ended up on our hands, the ice cream melting fairly quickly because of the outside temperature. Jodi got the coconut gelato:

coconut gelato at Caffè Del Battistero in Florence, Italy

And I got the hazelnut one:

hazelnut gelato at Caffè Del Battistero in Florence, Italy

The gelato was good, but I wish they asked us for the size we wanted, 10 euros being a bit expensive for what it was anyway.

Caffè Del Battistero

Via Martelli 13 Florence, Florence, Italy

But then, we went to Vivoli, a gelateria recommended by Jodi's friend Sabrina.

Vivoli in Florence, Italy

When we arrived, there was a group of tourists there, making me think that it is probably in lots of guide books. The way it works there is that first you pay and then you go to the gelato counter and order your flavor. Jodi ordered her coconut gelato that was deliciously creamy.

coconut gelato at Vivoli in Florence, Italy

On my side, I did not order my usual hazelnut flavor, but a pear and caramel scoop that was amazing. Ok, I did not really taste the caramel, but the pear taste was incredible: I bet they make their ice cream with real pears there.

pear and caramel gelato at Vivoli in Florence, Italy

This was the best gelato we had in Florence and I truly recommend Vivoli. Know that they have a location at Macy's in New York. We went there, but I admit that it did not look that appealing and we did not see any tempting flavors. I guess I will stick with Grom...

Vivoli

Via Dell'Isola delle Stinche, 7r, 50122 Florence, Italy

http://www.vivoli.it

The last gelateria I would mention is Carabé that I found surfing on the internet (it was recommended by Condé Nast Traveller).

Carabé in Florence, Italy

There, Jodi ordered two scoops: coconut and chocolate.

coconut and chocolate gelato at Carabé in Florence, Italy

Although not as creamy as Vivoli, I thought it was pretty good.

On my side, I ordered the pear gelato:

pear gelato at Carabé in Florence, Italy

I liked it, but, again, Vivoli was better.

Carabé

Via Ricasoli, 60, Florence, Italy

http://www.gelatocarabe.com

So, do not miss out on gelato in Florence and if you can, go to Vivoli: it is definitely worth it!

Enjoy (I did)!

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My trip to Europe:Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy

Florence, Italy

After few days in Florence, it was time to go back home. Florence is such a beautiful city, that even people who don't like art would appreciate it.

Florence, Italy

So for our last dinner, we went to Trattoria Sostanza that was, after Trattoria Mario, our second experience with a restaurant that serves food on communal table. We heard about this restaurant after doing some research on the good places to eat in Florence. One of the recommended dishes was the buttered chicken. I was for sure going to try it!

Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy

For dinner, they have two sittings: 7:30pm and 9pm. We decided to go to the earlier one and showed up 10 minutes before, just in case they opened the door in advance to hungry customers. As we arrived, there was already a small group of people waiting. 

dining room at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy

7:30pm, they opened their doors. We did not have a reservation and I was scared they would not have any availability. But, luckily, after just a couple if minutes, they brought us to a table where there was seated an American Family, as well as a Belgian couple. 

7:50pm: all tables are taken (they sit approximately 35 guests).

dining room at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy

Few minutes after, they brought us some bread; no bread basket: they simply put it in front of you with their bare hands, making the family next to us talk...

bread at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy

As the menu was in Italian and Jodi and I do not speak the language, I asked for an English version: they did not have any, forcing them to describe dishes to tourists. But hey, this is part of the experience!

menu at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy

To start, I decided to try one of their Italian beers.

beer at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy

And we ordered some delicious salami:

salami at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy

For her entree, Jodi ordered the tortellini al burro or tortellini with butter:

tortellini al burro at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy

It was very good, the amount of butter not being stranger to that. But for sure, these pasta seemed store bought. 

On my side, I got the buttered chicken:

buttered chicken at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy

I admit that, when I ordered it, I was a bit anxious, because everybody was ordering either the chicken or the bistecca a la Fiorentina that is simply a grilled T-bone steak you can find all over the city. I did not try it, preferring to try more traditional dishes. 

When the buttered chicken arrived, it was still sizzling, a delightful smell of butter emanating from the very hot skillet. I did not try the chicken first, but rather dipped a piece of bread in the sauce that was simply butter; and I mean a lot if butter. This was divine. Of course, I could not not notice the envious looks from my neighbors. The American family ordered the chicken too, for three people and it came in a larger skillet, but they served the chicken in dishes, so they had much less butter than me, hence more envious looks on their part...

buttered chicken at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy

The piece of bread dipped in the butter was delicious, but when I tried the chicken, I was in heaven: it was so good! Perfectly cooked, it was moist and I noticed a nice slight salty taste on the surface of the breast that was breaded with eggs, flour, salt and pepper. They probably sear it for several minutes before cooking it in the oven. 

This is a fantastic dish, a bit pricey (18 euros) as there was no side, but so delicious that I would definitely reorder it, even if it is a heart attack on a plate. 

I still had some room for dessert. We decided to go for their signature dessert: 

It was made of very small strawberries (first time I saw them), meringue, chocolate and whipped cream. It was very good: not too sweet, not too heavy (although Jodi would say that my conception of heavy might be different from anybody else...). At 10 euros, this dessert was also pricey. 

I really liked my meal at Sostanza and would definitely go back to try some other specialties, although I found the prices to be on the high side. The communal table is also a fun social experience that clearly depends on who you are sitting with. But anyway, you do not have to talk to people and can just enjoy the meal. And I enjoyed, I did!

Trattoria Sostanza

Via del Porcellana

25/R, 50123 Florence, Italy

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My trip to Europe: Osteria Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy

image of Florence, Italy

For our last day in Florence, we decided to walk around the city and check the Piazzale Michelangelo where one can admire the panorama of Florence, as well as a second replica of The David. 
image of The David in Florence, Italy

I admit that I was disappointed in a way, as I was expecting a square with a park and the statue in the middle, and not a parking lot and small shops for tourists...
image of Florence, Italy

It was a nice walk though and from there, we went back to Piazza Di Santo Spirito where we dined the second day in Florence. Our restaurant of choice was Osteria Santo Spirito that Jodi's friend, Missy, recommended.
image of Osteria Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy

It was a nice place, with a neighborhood feel, and the service was very good.
image of Osteria Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy

Right after we sat, they brought us some bread and tapenade.
image of bread and tapenade at Osteria Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy

The bread being unsalted, it was perfect with the tapenade.

image of bread and tapenade at Osteria Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy

Then, we went for a tomato and mozzarella salad.
image of tomato and mozzarella salad at Osteria Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy

The mozzarella di buffala was deliciously soft; I am not sure if they make it there or buy it at the store. Anyway, as you can see on the photo, the plates used to serve the food were a bit...used, similar to Grandma's kitchen!
image of tomato and mozzarella salad at Osteria Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy

We then ordered the Polpete Al Sugo or meatballs with tomato sauce.
image of meatballs or polpete al sugo at Osteria Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy

The tomato sauce was cooked with onions and carrots, probably for few hours.
image of meatballs or polpete al sugo at Osteria Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy

But the star of the dish were the meatballs: they were succulent, moist and tasty. This is definitely a dish I recommend.

We also tried the Minestra di Farro or spelt bean soup:
image of Minestra di Farro or spelt beans soup at Osteria Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy

I ordered the small size and did not expect to get a large bowl.
image of Minestra di Farro or spelt beans soup at Osteria Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy

It was also very good and very comforting. I also recommend that dish that I finished without any problem.
image of Minestra di Farro or spelt beans soup at Osteria Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy

When we finished, they brought us some cherries.
image of cherries at Osteria Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy

We definitely had a wonderful meal at Osteria Santo Spirito, a place that I definitely recommend.

Osteria Santo Spirito
Piazza Santo Spirito, 19 r, Florence, Italy
http://www.osteriasantospirito.it

Enjoy (I did)!

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My trip to Europe: Caffè Scudieri in Florence, Italy

image of Caffè Scudieri in Florence, Italy

After our dinner at Trattoria ZàZà, we decided to stop at Caffè Scudieri, to check their pastries. It is a big place with a large terrace and plenty of pastries to try.
image of pastries at Caffè Scudieri in Florence, Italy

We chose to sit inside instead of at the terrace.
image of menu at Caffè Scudieri in Florence, Italy

We decided to order couple of pastries, as well as a tea for Jodi
image of tea at Caffè Scudieri in Florence, Italy

image of tea at Caffè Scudieri in Florence, Italy

And a macchiato for me.

image of macchiato at Caffè Scudieri in Florence, Italy

It was good, but not as good as the one at Caffè Gilli that was tastier.
image of pastries at Caffè Scudieri in Florence, Italy

Then, the pastries came, and I was ready...

We decided to order:

A chocolate eclair:
image of chocolate eclair at Caffè Scudieri in Florence, Italy

A baba:
image of baba at Caffè Scudieri in Florence, Italy

And a cannoli:
image of cannoli at Caffè Scudieri in Florence, Italy

The eclair and baba were delicious and fresh, but the cannoli was not good: as it was not filled to order, the shell was soggy. The ricotta filling however was good, but not as good as the one at Caffè Gilli.

It was nice anyway, but I definitely prefer Caffè Gilli over Caffè Scudieri.

Caffè Scudieri
Piazza di San Giovanni, 19, 50129 Florence, Italy

Enjoy (I did)!

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My trip to Europe: Trattoria ZàZà in Florence, Italy

image of Mercato Centrale in Florence, Italy

We decided to go back to the Piazza del Mercato Centrale after our meal at Trattoria Mario, as we saw that there were plenty of restaurants, thinking that they probably source their ingredients from there. At that time, the market was closing down and the market crowd was gone, replaced by tourists looking for some amazing food.
image of Trattoria ZàZà in Florence, Italy

We looked around and noticed a very crowded place called Trattoria ZàZà. That place, opened in 1977 by Stefano Bondi, is huge. They sat us in a small, quiet area, away from the noise.
image of Trattoria ZàZà in Florence, Italy

We were ready for a feast and were not disappointed. Problem was: what do we order? The menu had so many mouth watering dishes that we were not sure...
image of San Lorenzo Tagliere at Trattoria ZàZà in Florence, Italy

So we started with the San Lorenzo "Tagliere", a plate of prosciutto, salami, stracchino (so good and creamy) and pecorino cheese, olives. This was a big plate for sure, but so good, especially the cheese.

We also tried a sampler of three traditional soups:

image of Tuscan soup sampler at Trattoria ZàZà in Florence, Italy

It was composed of:

  • Ribolita (top left): a vegetable and bread soup.
  • Pappa al pomodoro (bottom left): tomato, basil, leeks and bread soup.
  • Bean soup with barley.
This was delicious and I am glad that they offered a sampler. My favorite was definitely the bean soup that we found in other restaurants, cooked in different ways.


Then, Jodi got the Insalata Campagnola, a salad made with pecorino cheese, prosciutto and pears:
image of Insalata Campagnola at Trattoria ZàZà in Florence, Italy

On my side, I ordered the linguine alle Vongole, desperate to find one that topped the grainy one from Borgo Antico.
image of Linguine alle vongole at Trattoria ZàZà in Florence, Italy

It was just ok, not having enough white wine sauce. At least, the clams were well cleaned.

We did not have dessert as we had other plans and, anyway, needed a little walk after that feast...I certainly recommend Trattoria ZàZà for a good dinner. Their bistecca alla fiorentina looked fantastic and I would have gone back, I would have probably tried it!

Enjoy (I did)!

Trattoria ZàZà
Piazza del Mercato Centrale, 26, 50123 Florence, Italy
http://www.trattoriazaza.it

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My trip to Europe: Il Salimbecco in Florence, Italy

image of the cathedral and leaning tower in Pisa, Italy

As Pisa is close to Florence (approx. 1h20 minute bus drive), we decided to book a tour and go there an afternoon. For sure, we could not miss seeing the leaning tower.
image of the cathedral and leaning tower in Pisa, Italy

This construction that was built over 199 years starting in 1173 is impressive with its tilt that makes you wonder how in the world it is still standing.
image of  leaning tower in Pisa, Italy

So, before the tour that left at 1:30pm, we had to find a restaurant. We ended up at Il Salimbecco, located across the Capelle Medicee.
image of Capelle Medicee in Florence, Italy

We sat outside, at the terrace, as the weather was pretty nice.
image of Il Salimbecco in Florence, Italy

We started off our lunch with bruschetta e fettunta con extra vergine Toscano or bruschetta with tomato, garlic and olive oil:

image of bruschetta at Il Salimbecco in Florence, Italy

This is a very simple dish that was refreshing.

Then, Jodi got the pizza Tartufata that is with mozzarella, truffle, porcini mushrooms and fresh tomatoes:
image of pizza tartufata at Il Salimbecco in Florence, Italy

This was a disappointing pizza, being very soggy and the mushrooms having a weird texture.
image of pizza tartufata at Il Salimbecco in Florence, Italy

On my side, I had fettucine Alfredo that I only saw in this restaurant while in Florence.
image of fettucine Alfredo at Il Salimbecco in Florence, Italy

This dish was just ok, the sauce being a bit grainy.

So, you can guess that we were not that thrilled about that lunch. I would definitely pass the next time...

Il Salimbecco
Via del Canto de'Nelli 38/r
Florence, Italy

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My trip to Europe: Mamma Gina in Florence, Italy

image of Mamma Gina in Florence, Italy

Finding a restaurant in Florence is not a problem. The question is where to find a good one. There are of course guide books or sites like Trip Advisor, but the best is to get it either from locals, or from people who lived there. That is what happened with Mamma Gina: it was recommended by Jodi's friend Sabrina, who used to live there. 

Mamma Gina is located few steps from the Ponto Vecchio, the famous arch bridge re-built in 1345 across the Arno river, that was in fact the only bridge not destroyed in WWII.

It has interesting architecture, with its shops built along the arch; shops that use to be occupied by butchers, and now by expensive jewelers.
image of Mamma Gina in Florence, Italy

So, here we are at Mamma Gina. I originally thought that this place was small, but it is fairly big. I counted three different rooms: a small one at the entrance.
image of dining room at Mamma Gina in Florence, Italy

One in the back 
image of dining room at Mamma Gina in Florence, Italy

That has a view of the kitchen. 
image of kitchen at Mamma Gina in Florence, Italy

And one on the side where we dined. 

We decided to start with the Parmesan salad (nice amount of Parmesan on it):
image of parmesan salad at Mamma Gina in Florence, Italy

As well as the chicken liver crostini. 
image of chicken liver crostini at Mamma Gina in Florence, Italy

Ok, I admit that the brown color of the chicken liver pâté was not very appetizing, but it was a good dish, different in texture from the chicken liver pâté you would find in France or the chicken liver in the US. 
image of chicken liver crostini at Mamma Gina in Florence, Italy

Then, Jodi got the eggplant Parmesan:
image of eggplant parmesan at Mamma Gina in Florence, Italy

It was a good portion and did not need any pasta as a side with it. I am not sure how they prepared it, but it surely let the eggplant be the star of the dish. 

On my side, I ordered the tagliatelle al ragù. 
image of tagliatelle al ragu at Mamma Gina in Florence, Italy

The pasta were freshly made there and perfectly cooked. I truly appreciated the generous portion of this delicious ragù that was very comforting. 
image of tagliatelle al ragu at Mamma Gina in Florence, Italy

We finished off with the panna cotta that was succulent.
image of panna cotta at Mamma Gina in Florence, Italy

The service there was good, that was, from what we experienced so far, surprising...Anyway, Mamma Gina was definitely a good recommendation and I am glad we had the opportunity to try it. 

Enjoy (I did)!

Mamma Gina
Borgo San Iacopo
37 r, 50125 Florence, Italy
www.mammagina.it

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My trip to Europe: Trattoria Mario, communal dining in Florence, Italy

image of Mercato Centrale in Florence, Italy

We went to trattoria Mario thanks to a recommendation from Jodi's friend, Missy. This place, that is only open for lunch and does not take any reservations, is located near the Mercato Centrale or Central Market, where one can either buy food (inside) or bags and souvenirs, outside. 
image of Mercato Centrale in Florence, Italy

image of Mercato Centrale in Florence, Italy

image of Mercato Centrale in Florence, Italy

We arrived twenty minutes before and there were already people waiting outside.
image of Trattoria Mario, communal dining in Florence, Italy

Few minutes later, they opened the door and told us to get seated at specific spots, mentioning that the kitchen would only open at 12pm.

image of Trattoria Mario, communal dining in Florence, Italy

At 12:05pm, the place was full and we heard them telling people that the wait would be thirty minutes.
image of Trattoria Mario, communal dining in Florence, Italy

One particularity of this place is that it is communal seating: that was our first experience in this type of setup and we ended up eating with two regulars who knew the staff so well that one of them helped himself by grabbing some bread next to the small kitchen. They told us that they come on a quasi daily basis, because the food is as good as the one cooked by Grandma.

image of bread at Trattoria Mario, communal dining in Florence, Italy

But let me restate how communal it is: imagine a table of two we are used to and put four people on it.
image of Trattoria Mario, communal dining in Florence, Italy


We looked at the menu that was fortunately translated in English and had to make our choice quickly. Jodi ordered the ravioli verdi alle zuccine or ravioli with zucchini. 
image of ravioli with zucchini at Trattoria Mario, communal dining in Florence, Italy

This was a very nice dish, sort of peasant food. The ravioli by themselves were not that great, because the filling made with ricotta was a bit dry, but with the vegetables, it was succulent. 
image of ravioli with zucchini at Trattoria Mario, communal dining in Florence, Italy

On my side, I ordered the manicotti al ragù. 
image of manicotti al ragu at Trattoria Mario, communal dining in Florence, Italy

It was good and hearty, but I would have liked more ragù. Portion wise, it was small and I guess it was on purpose do people would order an appetizer. Concerning the pasta, I am not sure they were freshly made and tend to think they were store bought. 

With my meal, I got a carafe of Chianti. 
image of house wine chianti at Trattoria Mario, communal dining in Florence, Italy

Eating at Trattoria Mario was a very nice experience. The food was delicious and came very quickly to our table and we enjoyed talking to the people sitting with us, although the table was a little small for four people. I definitely recommend this place, but know that, if you go, they only accept cash. 

Enjoy (I did)!

Trattoria Mario
Via Rosina, 2
50123 Florence, Italy

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My trip to Europe: Italian desserts at Caffè Gilli in Florence, Italy

image of Caffè Gilli in Florence, Italy

After our average dinner at Borgo Antico, we decided to treat ourselves for some good Italian pastries and tried Caffè Gilli, a cafe opened in 1733 by the Gilli family, that moved since then in different part of the city.
image of Caffè Gilli in Florence, Italy

Caffè Gilli is a beautiful place that combines a patisserie and a tea room that had a very elegant decor.
image of Caffè Gilli in Florence, Italy

Jodi decided to order a tea
image of tea at Caffè Gilli in Florence, Italy

image of tea at Caffè Gilli in Florence, Italy

While on my side I ordered a latte macchiato

image of latte macchiato at Caffè Gilli in Florence, Italy

image of latte macchiato at Caffè Gilli in Florence, Italy

For pastries, we went for:

the tiramisu (of course, we could not not have it Italy):
image of tiramisu at Caffè Gilli in Florence, Italy

image of tiramisu at Caffè Gilli in Florence, Italy

It was delicious, very creamy with a nice amount of coffee.

The baba:
image of baba at Caffè Gilli in Florence, Italy

Very good, the cake was perfect and there was a nice amount of rum in it.

The cannoli:
image of cannoli at Caffè Gilli in Florence, Italy

Although I liked the ricotta filling, it was a miss, the shell being soggy.

This was a good way to end the evening. If I were to go back to Florence, I would definitely go back Caffè Gilli and definitely recommend the latte macchiato that was divine, as well as the tiramisu or baba (anyway, they have plenty more pastries to try!).


Caffé Gilli
Via Roma 1r, 
Florence, Italy

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My trip to Europe: Borgo Antico in Florence, Italy

image of Santo Spirito Basilica in Florence, Italy

For our second night in Florence, we had a walking tour that led us in front of the Santo Spirito Basilica, an area full of restaurants around a small park.

We decided to go to Borgo Antico, located in Piazza di Santo Spirito.
image of Borgo Antico in Florence, Italy

I did not see the interior of the restaurant as we decided to stay outside, the weather being perfect. I decided to order a glass of Spritz, a wine-based cocktail commonly served as an aperitif in Northeast Italy.
image of sprtiz at Borgo Antico in Florence, Italy

I enjoyed it with some black olives and bread.
image of olives and bread at Borgo Antico in Florence, Italy

We decided to just order an entree as we had other plans for dessert...Jodi ordered the pizza bianca con funghi misti e olio tartufato that is the white pizza with mozzarella, mushrooms and truffle oil.

image of white pizza with mushrooms at Borgo Antico in Florence, Italy

It was a fairly good pizza with a wonderful truffle scent, but I would have preferred real truffle like other joint proposed.
image of white pizza with mushrooms at Borgo Antico in Florence, Italy

On my side, I decided to order the linguine alle vongole or linguine with fresh clams, one of my favorite dishes.
image of linguine alle vongole at Borgo Antico in Florence, Italy

The linguine were perfectly cooked and the sauce was fantastic. However, the clams were full of sand, so very grainy. Too bad.

This was just ok; I think we had much better meals in Florence, one of them in the same area, so next time, I will pass...

Borgo Antico
Piazza di Santo Spirito
6-r, 50125 Florence, Italy

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My trip to Europe: Il Caminetto in Florence, Italy

image of The Duomo in Florence, Italy

For our first dinner in Florence, we did not have any plan and decided to look for a restaurant near the Piazza Del Duomo, where the impressive cathedral, built in 1296 through 1436 was standing. 
image of The Duomo in Florence, Italy image of The Duomo in Florence, Italy

We passed by Il Caminetto and noted the address as the restaurant was not yet open and we wanted to see what options were available.
image of Il Caminetto in Florence, Italy

But I was already sure we would dine there because of few dishes I saw and the fact that they make their own pasta, not that it is uncommon in Florence. 
image of dining room at Il Caminetto in Florence, Italy

It is not a big place and it filled up fairly quickly with tourists. I was hoping at that point that this was not one of those tourist traps...And it was not. 
image of bread basket at Il Caminetto in Florence, Italy


To start of, I ordered a Zuppeta cozze e Vongole, that is mussels and clams. 
image of Zuppeta cozze e Vongole at Il Caminetto in Florence, Italy

It was very good, the sauce being extremely tasty. In the bottom of the plate, submerged by the sauce was a piece of bread that I could not ignore. It started well!

For the main dish, Jodi ordered a seared tuna, a dish called Tonno agli aroma mediterranei
image of seared tuna at Il Caminetto in Florence, Italy

Quite good, I was surprised to see that it did not come with any side. 

On my side, I ordered the tagliatelle al ragù, the first of the series during my trip... This was delicious, the ragù being very flavorful and comforting. I definitely recommend it!
image of tagliatelle al ragù at Il Caminetto in Florence, Italy

To go with my pasta, I ordered a glass of chianti "Poggio al ripe" Tenuta S. Martino 2008:
image of Poggio al ripe at Il Caminetto in Florence, Italy

It was a good start for our vacation in Florence: the food was good as well as the service. Although mainly frequented by tourists, this is a nice and fairly priced place. 

Il Caminetto Ristorante
via dello Studio 34r
50100 Florence, Italy

Enjoy (I did)!

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My trip to Europe: L'Eden in Coublevie, France

image of L'Eden in Coublevie, France

Few years ago, we discovered L'Eden, a seafood restaurant located in Coublevie, Isère (check out my previous post). This is a spot that my family knows well, so we decided to go there to celebrate Mother's Day. Know that Mother's Day in France is always the last week end of May. 

The place was packed with families when we arrived, but we were the last to leave, after a three hour lunch...

The service was a bit challenging because the restaurant was clearly understaffed on a pretty demanding day. 
image of house cocktail at L'Eden in Coublevie, France

While making up our mind with the menu, we ordered the house cocktail that was made with champagne and curaçao, the latter giving a nice light blue color. Floating in the glass was a raspberry that went up and down as time went. 
image of house cocktail at L'Eden in Coublevie, France

We also ordered a bottle of wine, a Rasteau from 2010:
image of Rasteau wine at L'Eden in Coublevie, France
The brand is ORTAS that is an anagram for Rasteau.

Few moments after the brought the drink, they gave us a delicious velouté de champignons (cream of mushroom):
image of cream of mushroom at L'Eden in Coublevie, France

They had a set menu for the event, although they agreed to allow Jodi to order a vegetarian dish, as she did not like what they were proposing. Similar to last time, we ordered a Saint-Marcellin cheese salad. 

image of Saint-Marcellin salad at L'Eden in Coublevie, France

Nice looking, they put quit a lot of cheese, slightly toasted, on top of mesclun salad. 

On my side, I started with a wild salmon carpaccio with lime, apple, berries and olive oil. 
image of Salmon carpaccio at L'Eden in Coublevie, France

The carpaccio looked beautiful, made with slices of salmon a bit thicker than usual. The fish was sublime: fresh and delightfully fatty. Unfortunately, it was missing some acidity and the dish was overpowered by the olive oil. 
image of Salmon carpaccio at L'Eden in Coublevie, France

Next was the magret de canard with a morel sauce: 
image of magret de canard with Morel sauce at L'Eden in Coublevie, France

Magret is duck breast that is typically thinly sliced with a bit of fat in the outside, usually cooked pink in the center. 
image of magret de canard with Morel sauce at L'Eden in Coublevie, France

This was served with an écrasé de pomme de terre (crushed potatoes) that was deliciously creamy and some mushrooms. I really liked that dish: the magret was perfectly cooked and had a perfect amount of fat that had this wonderful grilled taste. And that morel sauce...so good! 
image of ecrase de pomme de terre at L'Eden in Coublevie, France

They also propose some cheeses like the fromage Blanc below, but I admit that after the feast I had that week end, I skipped it. 

For dessert, I chose the mango soup with a lemon sherbet and fresh mint. 
image of mango soup at L'Eden in Coublevie, France

It was just ok for me, missing some mint and the mango not being that tasty. However, Jodi ordered the moelleux au chocolat, a delicious cake with a melted center. 
image of moelleux au chocolat at L'Eden in Coublevie, France

image of moelleux au chocolat at L'Eden in Coublevie, France

We finished our meal with an espresso. 
image of espresso at L'Eden in Coublevie, France

It was a nice Mother's Day celebration, Bonne fête Maman!

I am sure you wonder if I would recommend this place. I think it is always difficult to judge a restaurant as events like this one are always challenging. Think about it: for valentine's day or New Year's Eve, lots of restaurants are proposing overpriced prix-fixe that are not of the best quality. That does not make them bad. The same applies to L'Eden. 

L'Eden
395 Chemin des Voûtes 
38500 Coublevie, France

Enjoy (I did)!

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My trip to Europe: Le Rempart, Tournus, France

image of city hall of Tournus, France

Our last Michelin Star restaurant we tried in our trip in Bourgogne was Le Rempart in Tournus. Nice small city of approximately 6,200 inhabitants, located along the Saône river; it was very quiet at the time we were there, if not for the activity surrounding a small cruise boat where one could dine while sailing on the river.
image of  street of Tournus, France

image of Saone river in the border of Tournus, France

The restaurant Le Rempart is located in a hotel with the same name. There is in fact the restaurant, as well as a low key bistro, located at the opposite side. 
image of Le Rempart in Tournus, France

The impressive building was a 15th century guardhouse, built on the ramparts that were surrounding the city, hence the name Le Rempart (The Rempart), and their logo that is everywhere. 
image of Le Rempart in Tournus, France

The decor is pretty elegant and it is definitely one level up from Pierre the restaurant that we visited the day before. At the entrance is a very small lounge where you can enjoy a drink from their large selection of alcohol. 
image of bar of Le Rempart in Tournus, France

image of bar of Le Rempart in Tournus, France

image of lounge of Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Then, the tables, not too close to each other. 
image of dining room at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

The menu, crafted by Chef Sylvain Gohier is very elegant, with an outstanding presentation that would make you think that the Chef is a painter and the plate his canvas. Again here, the food is not only for the pleasure of the palate, but also for the pleasure of the eyes. Showcasing incredible creativity, the Chef interprets dishes from different regions of France, sourcing the high quality ingredients he is using from French producers. 

We decided to start our meal with the house cocktail, made with whiskey, sweet wine (it might have been martini) and Pacherinc. 
image of house cocktail at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

With it, they served us some amuse-bouche. 
image of amuse-bouche at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

It was composed of:

Goat cheese

image of goat cheese at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Tomato with chorizo
image of tomato with chorizo at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Tuna
image of tuna at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

They then served us bread and butter. 
image of bread and butter at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Jodi picked the cereal bread
image of cereal bread at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

And I picked the olive and tomato one. 
image of olives and tomato bread at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Then, we all got a petit consommé de petits pois avec son anchoïade or peas consommé with anchovy cream. 
image of petit consommé de petit-pois avec son anchoiade at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

image of petit consommé de petit-pois avec son anchoïade at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

It started well! I love these little amuse that you get in restaurant of this caliber, because it opens your appetite. 

For the appetizer, I got the boeuf Charolais servi en tartare, copeaux de Cécina, Jaune d'oeuf confit et pissaladière aux anchois de Sicile. That is: beef tartare with yolk confit and pissaladière made with anchovies from Sicily. 
image of boeuf Charolais servi en tartare at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

I tried beef tartare in the past, but did not like it. I was thinking that in this restaurant it would be fantastic; and I was right! It was succulent, the meat (boeuf Charolais is top quality beef) being very good, cut in very small cubes, giving a bit of texture compared to the ground meat I got in the past, that gave a mushy feel. I definitely discovered, if not re-discovered beef tartare there. 
image of boeuf Charolais servi en tartare at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

image of boeuf Charolais servi en tartare at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Jodi got the saumon bio marqué au Fer rouge, tartare au citron Cedras et oeuf de poisson volant, sablé Parmesan et vinaigrette de betterave, or: organic salmon marked with an iron, tartare of lemon from Cedras, flying fish eggs, Parmesan crisp and beets vinaigrette. 
image of salmon at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

The salmon was delicious: simply cooked, it was a great piece of fish, very fresh. I liked the flying fish eggs with it as they added a delightful bitterness and saltiness to it. 
image of salmon at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

For my first entree, I had fish. Yes, I wrote first entree, because they propose a menu with fish and then meat. It was a bar de chalut cuit lentement, avec gnocchi de broccoli et écume de langue d'oursin or slow cooked bar fish, served with broccoli gnocchi and a sauce made with sea urchin. 
image of bar de chalut cuit lentement, avec gnocchi de broccoli at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

It was a succulent dish, the fish being cooked perfectly and very moist. I truly appreciated the fact that the light gnocchi had a very slight broccoli taste. 

In fact, Jodi got the same dish, but, as it was from the menu and not prix-fixe, she got a bigger portion and a totally different presentation.
image of bar de chalut cuit lentement, avec gnocchi de broccoli at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

The meat dish was agneau de lait d'Aveyron, carré servi rosé, avec asperges vertes or lamb rack cooked pink with asparagus. 
image of agneau de lait d'Aveyron at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

This was definitely my favorite dish: the meat was so good, tender and tasty with a nice charred fat, that I wish they had more. If you like lamb, I really recommend it. However, I did not like what was under that was surely not polenta, and had a weird taste. 

After the entree, they served us the cheese course. 
image of cheese cart at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Yes, they brought the cheese cart and as Jodi put it, you could hear angels singing when they opened it! I could pick three different ones from a large selection of French cheeses. I chose:
image of cheese plate at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Brillat Savarin, a triple-cream cheese made from cow's milk:
image of Brillat Savarin cheese at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Epoisse (soft cow's milk cheese from Bourgogne):
image of Epoisse cheese at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Tomme de Corse (from sheep's milk):
image of Tomme de Corse cheese at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

It was served with une pâte de coing or quince jelly. 

Then we got a pre-dessert that was a crémeux de fleur d'oranger, purée de fruits rouges et chantilly. Meaning: orange blossom cream with red fruits purée and whipped cream. 
image of Orange blossom cream at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

image of Orange blossom cream at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

And dessert: that time, I went for the Grand-Marnier soufflé that did not only looked spectacular, but was succulent (and big). 
image of Grand Marnier souffle at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

It was served with a lemon sherbet and a muffin that I really did not care about. 

Jodi got a selection of sherbet and ice cream. 
image of sherbet and ice cream at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

At that point, I was so full that I did not even think about writing down the flavors. We were also trying to figure out if the decorations on the plates were handmade. The answer from the waiter was funny: "We hired an artist and taught him how to make desserts". 

And they stuffed us with some cookies as if we still had room after such a feast...
image of cookies at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

image of cookies at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

I could not eat anymore and regretted not wearing stretch pants...

To accompany our meal, we got a white wine: Chassagne-Montrachet premier cru 2008. 
image of Chassagne-Montrachet premier cru 2008 at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

And a red: Chambolle-Musigny 2011. 
image of Chambolle-Musigny 2011 at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Both were proposed by the sommelier who did a great job advising about the wine. When asked if he prefers red or white with cheese, he interestingly said that he prefers white, because cheese would reveal too much the tannins of the wine, making it bitter, and vice-versa. 

This was a fantastic evening and dinner, in a nice place, with an outstanding service. Considering this and the cuisine perfectly executed by the Chef and his crew, I would not be surprised that a second Michelin Star follows...

Le Rempart
2 Avenue Gambetta
71700 Tournus, France

Enjoy (I sure did)!

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My trip to Europe: Le Cloître in Cluny, France

image of the abbey of Cluny, France

We were in Cluny, famous for its abbey founded in the 10th Century, one of the largest before being destroyed.

Since the end of the 19th century, it is one of the centers of the Ecole des Arts et Métiers, that was organizing a party for the end of the school year. Cluny is also known for its stables, that we did not get a chance to visit.
image of Cluny, France

image of Cluny, France

image of Cluny, France

image of Cluny, France

We arrived there in the morning, walking around this small town and enjoying the market that was setup in front of the abbey.
image of the market at Cluny, France

We looked for restaurants and first wanted to go to the Bar du Centre, but the staff did not seem to be eager to serve customers. That is when we saw Le Cloître, a restaurant serving traditional French dishes, as well as crêpes.
image of Le Cloître in Cluny, France

The waiter warned us that the service would be slow because they had a party of 16. I appreciated the heads up as, at least, if we stayed, we knew what to expect.

At Le Cloître, they propose different prix-fixe menus. Jodi went for the appetizer-dessert and I went for the appetizer-entrée as we would probably share the dessert. For her appetizer, Jodi ordered the fried Saint-Marcellin cheese salad.
image of Saint Marcellin cheese salad at Le Cloître in Cluny, France

The cheese was delicious with its crispy and not greasy shell, all melty inside.
image of Saint Marcellin cheese salad at Le Cloître in Cluny, France

On my side, I started of with the escargots façon Beaujolaise:
image of escargots façon Beaujolaise at Le Cloître in Cluny, France

It was quite interesting: I adore escargots de Bourgogne prepared with butter and parsley, tried them in a Roquefort sauce, but never this way, that is like a ragout made with red wine, with a taste similar to a daube, a classic French stew. I liked it, but my preference still remained with butter and parsley.
image of escargots façon Beaujolaise at Le Cloître in Cluny, France

For the entrée, I ordered the quenelle de brochet et morilles au coulis de champignons, that is pike quenelle with morel and its mushroom sauce.
image of pike quenelle at Le Cloître in Cluny, France

When the dish came, it was definitely overcooked and the sauce burnt. Problem was that this dish took 20 minutes to be prepared and, as the service was slow, we had no time to send it back, the abbey closing early. So we ate it. The quenelle itself was decent. But no trace of morel despite what the waiter told us.
image of pike quenelle at Le Cloître in Cluny, France

image of pike quenelle at Le Cloître in Cluny, France

It was served with some haricots verts that were not good, and a nice (at least) gratin Dauphinois, that is a potato au gratin. Overall, this was a promising, but very disappointing dish.
image of haricots verts at Le Cloître in Cluny, France

For dessert, Jodi ordered the brioche perdue au chocolat chaud. 
image of brioche perdue au chocolat chaud at Le Cloître in Cluny, France

I thought it would be French toast with a hot chocolate spread, but it seemed like a store bought slice of brioche toasted, with an imitation of Nutella on top. Perfect for a homemade breakfast, but not something I would serve in a restaurant.

We also tried the creme brûlée that was just ok.
image of creme brûlée at Le Cloître in Cluny, France

This was a disappointing lunch and next time, I'll pass Le Cloître...

Enjoy (...)!

Le Cloître
16 Rue Municipale
71250 Cluny, France

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My trip to Europe: Pierre in Mâcon, France

image of Vineyard in Bourgogne, France

My brother Hervé and sister in law Rosa proposed to spend the week end in Bourgogne (Burgundy) and to try some Michelin Star restaurants there. We had a wide choice of restaurants, as the region has many with one or more Michelin Stars, some of them offer reasonably priced menus. For instance, Pierre that is the subject if this post, has a menu at 29 Eur ($40) including taxes and service, with appetizer, entrée and dessert. 
image of Restaurant Pierre in Macon Bourgogne, France

I was also thrilled to have Jodi discover Bourgogne, a region known for its wine, where I did not set foot in years. 

So, our first Michelin Star restaurant was Pierre in Mâcon. To give us some appetite, we first visited this small city, on the riverside of La Saone. 

I thought that Pierre was the name of the Chef and owner of the restaurant. Well, no: it used to be the name of the owner, before Chef Christian Gaulin and is wife Isabelle purchased the place. It is not a big place, with probably 10 to 12 tables spread across the room, so you do not have the impression of eating with your neighbors... That day, they had a party of twenty setup in a private room, but this did not disrupt at all the impeccable service we got. 
image of Dining room at Pierre in Macon Bourgogne, France

The menu is what I would call New French, in the sense that it is not the traditional dishes you would find in some restaurants, like fromage de tête, coq au vin, canard à l'orange, etc...But elegant dishes made with traditional ingredients, from the terroir, such as foie gras or volaille de Bresse (poultry from Bresse, a fairly known origin). There, the pleasure of the eyes is as important as the taste. 
image of candle at Pierre in Macon Bourgogne, France

To start off, we decided to try their house cocktail, suggested by Isabelle Gauchin herself who, while her husband is the Chef d'Orchestre in the kitchen, plays the role of Maître D and sommelier. 
image of house cocktail at Pierre in Macon Bourgogne, France

The cocktail was made with crémant de Bourgogne and griotte. 
image of house cocktail at Pierre in Macon Bourgogne, France

Very fruity and with not too much alcohol, it was the perfect drink to start. 

Then, they brought us some bread. We had the choice between one made with Sel de Guérande (salt of Guérande):
image of bread with sel de Guerande at Pierre in Macon Bourgogne, France

Or olive oil and herbes de Provence (blend of herbs from Provence that you can find in fine groceries or Whole Foods). 
image of bread with olive oil and herbes de Provence at Pierre in Macon Bourgogne, France

It was served with some smokey salted butter made with smoked Sel de Guérande. 
image of butter made with smoked sel de Guerande at Pierre in Macon Bourgogne, France

Then, they brought us some Mises en bouche or amuse bouche:

image of mises en bouche at Pierre in Macon Bourgogne, France

Fish rillettes:
image of fish rillettes at Pierre in Macon Bourgogne, France

Foie gras crème brûlée with a cherry jam (my fav):
image of foie gras creme brûlée at Pierre in Macon Bourgogne, France

Crème coco avec jus de viande truffé or coconut cream with truffled meat juice. 
image of creme coco at Pierre in Macon Bourgogne, France

Petit sablé de Parmesan avec crème de roquette or Parmesan cookie with cream of roquette salad:
image of petit sable de parmesan at Pierre in Macon Bourgogne, France

Chips de jambon cru or cured ham chips:

This was a great start, the presentation being fantastic and a nice way to experience many different flavors. 

We then started our dinner, paired with some white Bourgogne wine from Mâcon, that I completely forgot to photograph, to remember the name...

My appetizer (did I mention that we say entrée in French because it is the first course, while what we call entree in the US is the plat or plat principal?), was the foie gras de canard du Sud-Ouest aux fruits secs en gelée de pomme et Mâcon moeilleux, petite feuilles et brioche tréssée

It was a foie gras from South-West with dried fruits in an apple gelée. It was served with some salad and a toasted brioche. 

I loved the foie gras, but admit that I did not like the texture of the gelée that was a mix between the gelatinous part and the crunch of the dried fruits. 

Jodi got the ravioles de champignons avec bouillon de foie gras or mushroom ravioles with a foie gras stock. 

Know that, unlike me, Jodi does not like foie gras, so she was not sure she would like it. But she did! These ravioles that are like small ravioli, were delicious, thin, with the mushroom taste coming through. The foie gras stock was very good also, the foie gras taste not overpowering. 

For the main dish, I got the volaille de Bresse ("Maison Miéral") en deux préparations: la poîtrine rôtie, jus au suc de cuisson tranché; la traditionnelle cuisse à la crème de morilles, risotto truffé


It was a poultry from Bresse ("Maison Miéral") prepared in two ways: the breast was roasted and drizzled what I believe can be translated by the juice reduction; then the thigh with a morel cream. It was served with a truffled risotto. 

This was a great dish, the poultry being perfectly cooked and moist. I just wished there was more of that morel sauce that was succulent. The truffled risotto was also perfect with it, the rice perfectly cooked and creamy. 

Jodi got the Goujonnette de turbot au basilic et mini-ratatouille (Turbot fish with mini-ratatouille):

Then, we got a pre-dessert. Isn't it a nice concept? A dessert before dessert: that's my kind of thing! It was a crémeux de fromage Blanc avec une confiture d'abricot or creamy fromage Blanc with its apricot jam. 


But it was not over! We got some mignardises ;

Orange sucettes (lollipop):

Gâteau Mâconnais or cookie from Mâcon:


Gâteau au caramel et noix or caramel and walnut cookie:


Idéal Mâconnais with nougatine, meringue, crème patissière:

Guimauve fraise or strawberry marshmallow:

Then came desserts! Jodi got the ice cream and sherbet selection. The flavors were: vanilla/coconut, strawberry, banana, exotic fruits and cassis. 

On my side, I chose the entremet croustillant chocolat blond "Dulcey" aux Pommes, served with a salted caramel ice cream. 

I picked it because we discovered the chocolat blond "Dulcey" few days before at Valrhona (check out the post here). It was good, but not at the level of their soufflé with limoncello. 


And when we thought it was over, they brought us some chocolates...

This was a sublime dinner, Chef Gauchin definitely deserving his Michelin Star for a cuisine served in a nice and relaxed atmosphere, not stuffy at all. The service was also perfect, as expected in such place. 

Restaurant Pierre
7 Rue Dufour
71000 Mâcon, France

Enjoy (I did)!

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My trip to Europe: Le Festival des Pizzas in Grenoble, France

Each time we go to Grenoble, we go to the Quartier Saint-Laurent aka Le Quartier des Italiens or Italian neighborhood, named because of the important Italian community there. 
image of grenoble, france

It is a nice area, located on one side if the Isère river and in the bottom of the Bastille that used to be a fortress, built in 1592 on the South end part of the Chartreuse mountain. It is now a ruin, with just few restaurants on top of the hill, where people like to go to get some fresh air, either walking or taking the "bulles", a spherical cable car. 
image of grenoble, france

We looked at all the pizzeria there to try to find one with Saint-Marcellin, a soft cheese made of cow's milk, named after a small town nearby where they produce this divine cheese. Unfortunately, we could not find it, so we opted for Le Festival des Pizzas, simply because they were the only one proposing a five cheese pizza!
image of Le Festival des Pizzas in Grenoble, France

That is what I ordered in fact. Cooked in a wood fire oven for a couple of minutes, it had emmental, goat, reblochon, blue and mozzarella cheese. 
image of brick oven at Le Festival des Pizzas in Grenoble, France

image of brick oven at Le Festival des Pizzas in Grenoble, France

I really liked the crust, the outside being all puffed up
image of 5 cheese pizza at Le Festival des Pizzas in Grenoble, France


image of 5 cheese pizza at Le Festival des Pizzas in Grenoble, France

And the bottom having a nice char. 
image of 5 cheese pizza at Le Festival des Pizzas in Grenoble, France

This is definitely the kind of pizza any cheese lover would like, as they were generous in the quantity of cheese. 

Jodi ordered the goat cheese salad, as two pizza are too much. 
image of goat cheese salad at Le Festival des Pizzas in Grenoble, France

Well, the salad was big...

My mom got the Atlantico pizza that had smoked salmon in it. 
image of Atlantico pizza at Le Festival des Pizzas in Grenoble, France

It was ok: I do not really like when smoked salmon is cooked because it releases the salt. 

Overall it was pretty good. I would definitely go back, maybe to try their white pies.

Festival des Pizzas
74 Quai Perrière
38000 Grenoble, France
www.festival-des-pizzas-grenoble.fr

Enjoy (I did)!

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