My trip to Europe:Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
After few days in Florence, it was time to go back home. Florence is such a beautiful city, that even people who don't like art would appreciate it.
Florence, Italy
So for our last dinner, we went to Trattoria Sostanza that was, after Trattoria Mario, our second experience with a restaurant that serves food on communal table. We heard about this restaurant after doing some research on the good places to eat in Florence. One of the recommended dishes was the buttered chicken. I was for sure going to try it!
Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy
For dinner, they have two sittings: 7:30pm and 9pm. We decided to go to the earlier one and showed up 10 minutes before, just in case they opened the door in advance to hungry customers. As we arrived, there was already a small group of people waiting.
dining room at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy
7:30pm, they opened their doors. We did not have a reservation and I was scared they would not have any availability. But, luckily, after just a couple if minutes, they brought us to a table where there was seated an American Family, as well as a Belgian couple.
7:50pm: all tables are taken (they sit approximately 35 guests).
dining room at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy
Few minutes after, they brought us some bread; no bread basket: they simply put it in front of you with their bare hands, making the family next to us talk...
bread at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy
As the menu was in Italian and Jodi and I do not speak the language, I asked for an English version: they did not have any, forcing them to describe dishes to tourists. But hey, this is part of the experience!
menu at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy
To start, I decided to try one of their Italian beers.
beer at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy
And we ordered some delicious salami:
salami at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy
For her entree, Jodi ordered the tortellini al burro or tortellini with butter:
tortellini al burro at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy
It was very good, the amount of butter not being stranger to that. But for sure, these pasta seemed store bought.
On my side, I got the buttered chicken:
buttered chicken at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy
I admit that, when I ordered it, I was a bit anxious, because everybody was ordering either the chicken or the bistecca a la Fiorentina that is simply a grilled T-bone steak you can find all over the city. I did not try it, preferring to try more traditional dishes.
When the buttered chicken arrived, it was still sizzling, a delightful smell of butter emanating from the very hot skillet. I did not try the chicken first, but rather dipped a piece of bread in the sauce that was simply butter; and I mean a lot if butter. This was divine. Of course, I could not not notice the envious looks from my neighbors. The American family ordered the chicken too, for three people and it came in a larger skillet, but they served the chicken in dishes, so they had much less butter than me, hence more envious looks on their part...
buttered chicken at Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy
The piece of bread dipped in the butter was delicious, but when I tried the chicken, I was in heaven: it was so good! Perfectly cooked, it was moist and I noticed a nice slight salty taste on the surface of the breast that was breaded with eggs, flour, salt and pepper. They probably sear it for several minutes before cooking it in the oven.
This is a fantastic dish, a bit pricey (18 euros) as there was no side, but so delicious that I would definitely reorder it, even if it is a heart attack on a plate.
I still had some room for dessert. We decided to go for their signature dessert:
It was made of very small strawberries (first time I saw them), meringue, chocolate and whipped cream. It was very good: not too sweet, not too heavy (although Jodi would say that my conception of heavy might be different from anybody else...). At 10 euros, this dessert was also pricey.
I really liked my meal at Sostanza and would definitely go back to try some other specialties, although I found the prices to be on the high side. The communal table is also a fun social experience that clearly depends on who you are sitting with. But anyway, you do not have to talk to people and can just enjoy the meal. And I enjoyed, I did!
Trattoria Sostanza
Via del Porcellana
25/R, 50123 Florence, Italy
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My trip to Europe: Osteria Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy
For our last day in Florence, we decided to walk around the city and check the Piazzale Michelangelo where one can admire the panorama of Florence, as well as a second replica of The David.
I admit that I was disappointed in a way, as I was expecting a square with a park and the statue in the middle, and not a parking lot and small shops for tourists...
It was a nice walk though and from there, we went back to Piazza Di Santo Spirito where we dined the second day in Florence. Our restaurant of choice was Osteria Santo Spirito that Jodi's friend, Missy, recommended.
Right after we sat, they brought us some bread and tapenade.
The bread being unsalted, it was perfect with the tapenade.
Then, we went for a tomato and mozzarella salad.
The mozzarella di buffala was deliciously soft; I am not sure if they make it there or buy it at the store. Anyway, as you can see on the photo, the plates used to serve the food were a bit...used, similar to Grandma's kitchen!
We then ordered the Polpete Al Sugo or meatballs with tomato sauce.
But the star of the dish were the meatballs: they were succulent, moist and tasty. This is definitely a dish I recommend.
We also tried the Minestra di Farro or spelt bean soup:
I ordered the small size and did not expect to get a large bowl.
It was also very good and very comforting. I also recommend that dish that I finished without any problem.
When we finished, they brought us some cherries.
We definitely had a wonderful meal at Osteria Santo Spirito, a place that I definitely recommend.
Osteria Santo Spirito
Piazza Santo Spirito, 19 r, Florence, Italy
http://www.osteriasantospirito.it
Enjoy (I did)!
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My trip to Europe: Caffè Scudieri in Florence, Italy
After our dinner at Trattoria ZàZà, we decided to stop at Caffè Scudieri, to check their pastries. It is a big place with a large terrace and plenty of pastries to try.
We chose to sit inside instead of at the terrace.
We decided to order couple of pastries, as well as a tea for Jodi
And a macchiato for me.
It was good, but not as good as the one at Caffè Gilli that was tastier.
Then, the pastries came, and I was ready...
We decided to order:
A chocolate eclair:
A baba:
And a cannoli:
The eclair and baba were delicious and fresh, but the cannoli was not good: as it was not filled to order, the shell was soggy. The ricotta filling however was good, but not as good as the one at Caffè Gilli.
It was nice anyway, but I definitely prefer Caffè Gilli over Caffè Scudieri.
Caffè Scudieri
Piazza di San Giovanni, 19, 50129 Florence, Italy
Enjoy (I did)!
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My trip to Europe: Trattoria ZàZà in Florence, Italy
We decided to go back to the Piazza del Mercato Centrale after our meal at Trattoria Mario, as we saw that there were plenty of restaurants, thinking that they probably source their ingredients from there. At that time, the market was closing down and the market crowd was gone, replaced by tourists looking for some amazing food.
We looked around and noticed a very crowded place called Trattoria ZàZà. That place, opened in 1977 by Stefano Bondi, is huge. They sat us in a small, quiet area, away from the noise.
We were ready for a feast and were not disappointed. Problem was: what do we order? The menu had so many mouth watering dishes that we were not sure...
So we started with the San Lorenzo "Tagliere", a plate of prosciutto, salami, stracchino (so good and creamy) and pecorino cheese, olives. This was a big plate for sure, but so good, especially the cheese.
We also tried a sampler of three traditional soups:
It was composed of:
- Ribolita (top left): a vegetable and bread soup.
- Pappa al pomodoro (bottom left): tomato, basil, leeks and bread soup.
- Bean soup with barley.
This was delicious and I am glad that they offered a sampler. My favorite was definitely the bean soup that we found in other restaurants, cooked in different ways.
Then, Jodi got the Insalata Campagnola, a salad made with pecorino cheese, prosciutto and pears:
On my side, I ordered the linguine alle Vongole, desperate to find one that topped the grainy one from Borgo Antico.
It was just ok, not having enough white wine sauce. At least, the clams were well cleaned.
We did not have dessert as we had other plans and, anyway, needed a little walk after that feast...I certainly recommend Trattoria ZàZà for a good dinner. Their bistecca alla fiorentina looked fantastic and I would have gone back, I would have probably tried it!
Enjoy (I did)!
Trattoria ZàZà
Piazza del Mercato Centrale, 26, 50123 Florence, Italy
http://www.trattoriazaza.it
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My trip to Europe: Il Salimbecco in Florence, Italy
As Pisa is close to Florence (approx. 1h20 minute bus drive), we decided to book a tour and go there an afternoon. For sure, we could not miss seeing the leaning tower.
This construction that was built over 199 years starting in 1173 is impressive with its tilt that makes you wonder how in the world it is still standing.
So, before the tour that left at 1:30pm, we had to find a restaurant. We ended up at Il Salimbecco, located across the Capelle Medicee.
We sat outside, at the terrace, as the weather was pretty nice.
We started off our lunch with bruschetta e fettunta con extra vergine Toscano or bruschetta with tomato, garlic and olive oil:
This is a very simple dish that was refreshing.
Then, Jodi got the pizza Tartufata that is with mozzarella, truffle, porcini mushrooms and fresh tomatoes:
This was a disappointing pizza, being very soggy and the mushrooms having a weird texture.
On my side, I had fettucine Alfredo that I only saw in this restaurant while in Florence.
This dish was just ok, the sauce being a bit grainy.
So, you can guess that we were not that thrilled about that lunch. I would definitely pass the next time...
Il Salimbecco
Via del Canto de'Nelli 38/r
Florence, Italy
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My trip to Europe: Mamma Gina in Florence, Italy
Finding a restaurant in Florence is not a problem. The question is where to find a good one. There are of course guide books or sites like Trip Advisor, but the best is to get it either from locals, or from people who lived there. That is what happened with Mamma Gina: it was recommended by Jodi's friend Sabrina, who used to live there.
Mamma Gina is located few steps from the Ponto Vecchio, the famous arch bridge re-built in 1345 across the Arno river, that was in fact the only bridge not destroyed in WWII.
It has interesting architecture, with its shops built along the arch; shops that use to be occupied by butchers, and now by expensive jewelers.
So, here we are at Mamma Gina. I originally thought that this place was small, but it is fairly big. I counted three different rooms: a small one at the entrance.
One in the back
That has a view of the kitchen.
And one on the side where we dined.
We decided to start with the Parmesan salad (nice amount of Parmesan on it):
As well as the chicken liver crostini.
Ok, I admit that the brown color of the chicken liver pâté was not very appetizing, but it was a good dish, different in texture from the chicken liver pâté you would find in France or the chicken liver in the US.
Then, Jodi got the eggplant Parmesan:
It was a good portion and did not need any pasta as a side with it. I am not sure how they prepared it, but it surely let the eggplant be the star of the dish.
On my side, I ordered the tagliatelle al ragù.
The pasta were freshly made there and perfectly cooked. I truly appreciated the generous portion of this delicious ragù that was very comforting.
We finished off with the panna cotta that was succulent.
The service there was good, that was, from what we experienced so far, surprising...Anyway, Mamma Gina was definitely a good recommendation and I am glad we had the opportunity to try it.
The service there was good, that was, from what we experienced so far, surprising...Anyway, Mamma Gina was definitely a good recommendation and I am glad we had the opportunity to try it.
Enjoy (I did)!
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My trip to Europe: Trattoria Mario, communal dining in Florence, Italy
We went to trattoria Mario thanks to a recommendation from Jodi's friend, Missy. This place, that is only open for lunch and does not take any reservations, is located near the Mercato Centrale or Central Market, where one can either buy food (inside) or bags and souvenirs, outside.
We arrived twenty minutes before and there were already people waiting outside.
Few minutes later, they opened the door and told us to get seated at specific spots, mentioning that the kitchen would only open at 12pm.
At 12:05pm, the place was full and we heard them telling people that the wait would be thirty minutes.
One particularity of this place is that it is communal seating: that was our first experience in this type of setup and we ended up eating with two regulars who knew the staff so well that one of them helped himself by grabbing some bread next to the small kitchen. They told us that they come on a quasi daily basis, because the food is as good as the one cooked by Grandma.
Few minutes later, they opened the door and told us to get seated at specific spots, mentioning that the kitchen would only open at 12pm.
At 12:05pm, the place was full and we heard them telling people that the wait would be thirty minutes.
One particularity of this place is that it is communal seating: that was our first experience in this type of setup and we ended up eating with two regulars who knew the staff so well that one of them helped himself by grabbing some bread next to the small kitchen. They told us that they come on a quasi daily basis, because the food is as good as the one cooked by Grandma.
But let me restate how communal it is: imagine a table of two we are used to and put four people on it.
We looked at the menu that was fortunately translated in English and had to make our choice quickly. Jodi ordered the ravioli verdi alle zuccine or ravioli with zucchini.
This was a very nice dish, sort of peasant food. The ravioli by themselves were not that great, because the filling made with ricotta was a bit dry, but with the vegetables, it was succulent.
On my side, I ordered the manicotti al ragù.
It was good and hearty, but I would have liked more ragù. Portion wise, it was small and I guess it was on purpose do people would order an appetizer. Concerning the pasta, I am not sure they were freshly made and tend to think they were store bought.
With my meal, I got a carafe of Chianti.
Eating at Trattoria Mario was a very nice experience. The food was delicious and came very quickly to our table and we enjoyed talking to the people sitting with us, although the table was a little small for four people. I definitely recommend this place, but know that, if you go, they only accept cash.
Enjoy (I did)!
Trattoria Mario
Via Rosina, 2
50123 Florence, Italy
50123 Florence, Italy
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My trip to Europe: Italian desserts at Caffè Gilli in Florence, Italy
After our average dinner at Borgo Antico, we decided to treat ourselves for some good Italian pastries and tried Caffè Gilli, a cafe opened in 1733 by the Gilli family, that moved since then in different part of the city.
Caffè Gilli is a beautiful place that combines a patisserie and a tea room that had a very elegant decor.
Jodi decided to order a tea
For pastries, we went for:
the tiramisu (of course, we could not not have it Italy):
It was delicious, very creamy with a nice amount of coffee.
The baba:
Very good, the cake was perfect and there was a nice amount of rum in it.
The cannoli:
Although I liked the ricotta filling, it was a miss, the shell being soggy.
This was a good way to end the evening. If I were to go back to Florence, I would definitely go back Caffè Gilli and definitely recommend the latte macchiato that was divine, as well as the tiramisu or baba (anyway, they have plenty more pastries to try!).
Caffé Gilli
Via Roma 1r,
Florence, Italy
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My trip to Europe: Borgo Antico in Florence, Italy
For our second night in Florence, we had a walking tour that led us in front of the Santo Spirito Basilica, an area full of restaurants around a small park.
We decided to go to Borgo Antico, located in Piazza di Santo Spirito.
We decided to go to Borgo Antico, located in Piazza di Santo Spirito.
I did not see the interior of the restaurant as we decided to stay outside, the weather being perfect. I decided to order a glass of Spritz, a wine-based cocktail commonly served as an aperitif in Northeast Italy.
I enjoyed it with some black olives and bread.
We decided to just order an entree as we had other plans for dessert...Jodi ordered the pizza bianca con funghi misti e olio tartufato that is the white pizza with mozzarella, mushrooms and truffle oil.
It was a fairly good pizza with a wonderful truffle scent, but I would have preferred real truffle like other joint proposed.
On my side, I decided to order the linguine alle vongole or linguine with fresh clams, one of my favorite dishes.
The linguine were perfectly cooked and the sauce was fantastic. However, the clams were full of sand, so very grainy. Too bad.
This was just ok; I think we had much better meals in Florence, one of them in the same area, so next time, I will pass...
Borgo Antico
Piazza di Santo Spirito
6-r, 50125 Florence, Italy
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My trip to Europe: Il Caminetto in Florence, Italy
For our first dinner in Florence, we did not have any plan and decided to look for a restaurant near the Piazza Del Duomo, where the impressive cathedral, built in 1296 through 1436 was standing.
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But I was already sure we would dine there because of few dishes I saw and the fact that they make their own pasta, not that it is uncommon in Florence.
It is not a big place and it filled up fairly quickly with tourists. I was hoping at that point that this was not one of those tourist traps...And it was not.
To start of, I ordered a Zuppeta cozze e Vongole, that is mussels and clams.
It was very good, the sauce being extremely tasty. In the bottom of the plate, submerged by the sauce was a piece of bread that I could not ignore. It started well!
For the main dish, Jodi ordered a seared tuna, a dish called Tonno agli aroma mediterranei.
Quite good, I was surprised to see that it did not come with any side.
On my side, I ordered the tagliatelle al ragù, the first of the series during my trip... This was delicious, the ragù being very flavorful and comforting. I definitely recommend it!
To go with my pasta, I ordered a glass of chianti "Poggio al ripe" Tenuta S. Martino 2008:
It was a good start for our vacation in Florence: the food was good as well as the service. Although mainly frequented by tourists, this is a nice and fairly priced place.
Il Caminetto Ristorante
via dello Studio 34r
50100 Florence, Italy
Enjoy (I did)!
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My trip to Europe: L'Eden in Coublevie, France
Few years ago, we discovered L'Eden, a seafood restaurant located in Coublevie, Isère (check out my previous post). This is a spot that my family knows well, so we decided to go there to celebrate Mother's Day. Know that Mother's Day in France is always the last week end of May.
The place was packed with families when we arrived, but we were the last to leave, after a three hour lunch...
The service was a bit challenging because the restaurant was clearly understaffed on a pretty demanding day.
While making up our mind with the menu, we ordered the house cocktail that was made with champagne and curaçao, the latter giving a nice light blue color. Floating in the glass was a raspberry that went up and down as time went.
We also ordered a bottle of wine, a Rasteau from 2010:
The brand is ORTAS that is an anagram for Rasteau.
Few moments after the brought the drink, they gave us a delicious velouté de champignons (cream of mushroom):
They had a set menu for the event, although they agreed to allow Jodi to order a vegetarian dish, as she did not like what they were proposing. Similar to last time, we ordered a Saint-Marcellin cheese salad.
Nice looking, they put quit a lot of cheese, slightly toasted, on top of mesclun salad.
On my side, I started with a wild salmon carpaccio with lime, apple, berries and olive oil.
The carpaccio looked beautiful, made with slices of salmon a bit thicker than usual. The fish was sublime: fresh and delightfully fatty. Unfortunately, it was missing some acidity and the dish was overpowered by the olive oil.
Next was the magret de canard with a morel sauce:
Magret is duck breast that is typically thinly sliced with a bit of fat in the outside, usually cooked pink in the center.
This was served with an écrasé de pomme de terre (crushed potatoes) that was deliciously creamy and some mushrooms. I really liked that dish: the magret was perfectly cooked and had a perfect amount of fat that had this wonderful grilled taste. And that morel sauce...so good!
They also propose some cheeses like the fromage Blanc below, but I admit that after the feast I had that week end, I skipped it.
For dessert, I chose the mango soup with a lemon sherbet and fresh mint.
It was just ok for me, missing some mint and the mango not being that tasty. However, Jodi ordered the moelleux au chocolat, a delicious cake with a melted center.
We finished our meal with an espresso.
It was a nice Mother's Day celebration, Bonne fête Maman!
I am sure you wonder if I would recommend this place. I think it is always difficult to judge a restaurant as events like this one are always challenging. Think about it: for valentine's day or New Year's Eve, lots of restaurants are proposing overpriced prix-fixe that are not of the best quality. That does not make them bad. The same applies to L'Eden.
L'Eden
395 Chemin des Voûtes
38500 Coublevie, France
Enjoy (I did)!
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My trip to Europe: Le Rempart, Tournus, France
The restaurant Le Rempart is located in a hotel with the same name. There is in fact the restaurant, as well as a low key bistro, located at the opposite side.
The impressive building was a 15th century guardhouse, built on the ramparts that were surrounding the city, hence the name Le Rempart (The Rempart), and their logo that is everywhere.
The decor is pretty elegant and it is definitely one level up from Pierre the restaurant that we visited the day before. At the entrance is a very small lounge where you can enjoy a drink from their large selection of alcohol.
Then, the tables, not too close to each other.
The menu, crafted by Chef Sylvain Gohier is very elegant, with an outstanding presentation that would make you think that the Chef is a painter and the plate his canvas. Again here, the food is not only for the pleasure of the palate, but also for the pleasure of the eyes. Showcasing incredible creativity, the Chef interprets dishes from different regions of France, sourcing the high quality ingredients he is using from French producers.
We decided to start our meal with the house cocktail, made with whiskey, sweet wine (it might have been martini) and Pacherinc.
With it, they served us some amuse-bouche.
It was composed of:
Goat cheese
Tomato with chorizo
Tuna
They then served us bread and butter.
Jodi picked the cereal bread
And I picked the olive and tomato one.
Then, we all got a petit consommé de petits pois avec son anchoïade or peas consommé with anchovy cream.
It started well! I love these little amuse that you get in restaurant of this caliber, because it opens your appetite.
For the appetizer, I got the boeuf Charolais servi en tartare, copeaux de Cécina, Jaune d'oeuf confit et pissaladière aux anchois de Sicile. That is: beef tartare with yolk confit and pissaladière made with anchovies from Sicily.
I tried beef tartare in the past, but did not like it. I was thinking that in this restaurant it would be fantastic; and I was right! It was succulent, the meat (boeuf Charolais is top quality beef) being very good, cut in very small cubes, giving a bit of texture compared to the ground meat I got in the past, that gave a mushy feel. I definitely discovered, if not re-discovered beef tartare there.
Jodi got the saumon bio marqué au Fer rouge, tartare au citron Cedras et oeuf de poisson volant, sablé Parmesan et vinaigrette de betterave, or: organic salmon marked with an iron, tartare of lemon from Cedras, flying fish eggs, Parmesan crisp and beets vinaigrette.
The salmon was delicious: simply cooked, it was a great piece of fish, very fresh. I liked the flying fish eggs with it as they added a delightful bitterness and saltiness to it.
For my first entree, I had fish. Yes, I wrote first entree, because they propose a menu with fish and then meat. It was a bar de chalut cuit lentement, avec gnocchi de broccoli et écume de langue d'oursin or slow cooked bar fish, served with broccoli gnocchi and a sauce made with sea urchin.
It was a succulent dish, the fish being cooked perfectly and very moist. I truly appreciated the fact that the light gnocchi had a very slight broccoli taste.
In fact, Jodi got the same dish, but, as it was from the menu and not prix-fixe, she got a bigger portion and a totally different presentation.
The meat dish was agneau de lait d'Aveyron, carré servi rosé, avec asperges vertes or lamb rack cooked pink with asparagus.
This was definitely my favorite dish: the meat was so good, tender and tasty with a nice charred fat, that I wish they had more. If you like lamb, I really recommend it. However, I did not like what was under that was surely not polenta, and had a weird taste.
After the entree, they served us the cheese course.
Yes, they brought the cheese cart and as Jodi put it, you could hear angels singing when they opened it! I could pick three different ones from a large selection of French cheeses. I chose:
Brillat Savarin, a triple-cream cheese made from cow's milk:
Epoisse (soft cow's milk cheese from Bourgogne):
Tomme de Corse (from sheep's milk):
It was served with une pâte de coing or quince jelly.
Then we got a pre-dessert that was a crémeux de fleur d'oranger, purée de fruits rouges et chantilly. Meaning: orange blossom cream with red fruits purée and whipped cream.
And dessert: that time, I went for the Grand-Marnier soufflé that did not only looked spectacular, but was succulent (and big).
It was served with a lemon sherbet and a muffin that I really did not care about.
Jodi got a selection of sherbet and ice cream.
At that point, I was so full that I did not even think about writing down the flavors. We were also trying to figure out if the decorations on the plates were handmade. The answer from the waiter was funny: "We hired an artist and taught him how to make desserts".
And they stuffed us with some cookies as if we still had room after such a feast...
I could not eat anymore and regretted not wearing stretch pants...
To accompany our meal, we got a white wine: Chassagne-Montrachet premier cru 2008.
And a red: Chambolle-Musigny 2011.
Both were proposed by the sommelier who did a great job advising about the wine. When asked if he prefers red or white with cheese, he interestingly said that he prefers white, because cheese would reveal too much the tannins of the wine, making it bitter, and vice-versa.
This was a fantastic evening and dinner, in a nice place, with an outstanding service. Considering this and the cuisine perfectly executed by the Chef and his crew, I would not be surprised that a second Michelin Star follows...
Le Rempart
2 Avenue Gambetta
71700 Tournus, France
Enjoy (I sure did)!
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My trip to Europe: Le Cloître in Cluny, France
We were in Cluny, famous for its abbey founded in the 10th Century, one of the largest before being destroyed.
Since the end of the 19th century, it is one of the centers of the Ecole des Arts et Métiers, that was organizing a party for the end of the school year. Cluny is also known for its stables, that we did not get a chance to visit.
We arrived there in the morning, walking around this small town and enjoying the market that was setup in front of the abbey.
We looked for restaurants and first wanted to go to the Bar du Centre, but the staff did not seem to be eager to serve customers. That is when we saw Le Cloître, a restaurant serving traditional French dishes, as well as crêpes.
We looked for restaurants and first wanted to go to the Bar du Centre, but the staff did not seem to be eager to serve customers. That is when we saw Le Cloître, a restaurant serving traditional French dishes, as well as crêpes.
The waiter warned us that the service would be slow because they had a party of 16. I appreciated the heads up as, at least, if we stayed, we knew what to expect.
At Le Cloître, they propose different prix-fixe menus. Jodi went for the appetizer-dessert and I went for the appetizer-entrée as we would probably share the dessert. For her appetizer, Jodi ordered the fried Saint-Marcellin cheese salad.
The cheese was delicious with its crispy and not greasy shell, all melty inside.
On my side, I started of with the escargots façon Beaujolaise:
It was quite interesting: I adore escargots de Bourgogne prepared with butter and parsley, tried them in a Roquefort sauce, but never this way, that is like a ragout made with red wine, with a taste similar to a daube, a classic French stew. I liked it, but my preference still remained with butter and parsley.
For the entrée, I ordered the quenelle de brochet et morilles au coulis de champignons, that is pike quenelle with morel and its mushroom sauce.
When the dish came, it was definitely overcooked and the sauce burnt. Problem was that this dish took 20 minutes to be prepared and, as the service was slow, we had no time to send it back, the abbey closing early. So we ate it. The quenelle itself was decent. But no trace of morel despite what the waiter told us.
It was served with some haricots verts that were not good, and a nice (at least) gratin Dauphinois, that is a potato au gratin. Overall, this was a promising, but very disappointing dish.
For dessert, Jodi ordered the brioche perdue au chocolat chaud.
I thought it would be French toast with a hot chocolate spread, but it seemed like a store bought slice of brioche toasted, with an imitation of Nutella on top. Perfect for a homemade breakfast, but not something I would serve in a restaurant.
We also tried the creme brûlée that was just ok.
We also tried the creme brûlée that was just ok.
This was a disappointing lunch and next time, I'll pass Le Cloître...
Enjoy (...)!
Le Cloître
16 Rue Municipale
71250 Cluny, France
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My trip to Europe: Pierre in Mâcon, France
My brother Hervé and sister in law Rosa proposed to spend the week end in Bourgogne (Burgundy) and to try some Michelin Star restaurants there. We had a wide choice of restaurants, as the region has many with one or more Michelin Stars, some of them offer reasonably priced menus. For instance, Pierre that is the subject if this post, has a menu at 29 Eur ($40) including taxes and service, with appetizer, entrée and dessert.
I was also thrilled to have Jodi discover Bourgogne, a region known for its wine, where I did not set foot in years.
So, our first Michelin Star restaurant was Pierre in Mâcon. To give us some appetite, we first visited this small city, on the riverside of La Saone.
I thought that Pierre was the name of the Chef and owner of the restaurant. Well, no: it used to be the name of the owner, before Chef Christian Gaulin and is wife Isabelle purchased the place. It is not a big place, with probably 10 to 12 tables spread across the room, so you do not have the impression of eating with your neighbors... That day, they had a party of twenty setup in a private room, but this did not disrupt at all the impeccable service we got.
The menu is what I would call New French, in the sense that it is not the traditional dishes you would find in some restaurants, like fromage de tête, coq au vin, canard à l'orange, etc...But elegant dishes made with traditional ingredients, from the terroir, such as foie gras or volaille de Bresse (poultry from Bresse, a fairly known origin). There, the pleasure of the eyes is as important as the taste.
To start off, we decided to try their house cocktail, suggested by Isabelle Gauchin herself who, while her husband is the Chef d'Orchestre in the kitchen, plays the role of Maître D and sommelier.
The cocktail was made with crémant de Bourgogne and griotte.
Very fruity and with not too much alcohol, it was the perfect drink to start.
Then, they brought us some bread. We had the choice between one made with Sel de Guérande (salt of Guérande):
Or olive oil and herbes de Provence (blend of herbs from Provence that you can find in fine groceries or Whole Foods).
It was served with some smokey salted butter made with smoked Sel de Guérande.
Then, they brought us some Mises en bouche or amuse bouche:
Fish rillettes:
Foie gras crème brûlée with a cherry jam (my fav):
Crème coco avec jus de viande truffé or coconut cream with truffled meat juice.
Petit sablé de Parmesan avec crème de roquette or Parmesan cookie with cream of roquette salad:
Chips de jambon cru or cured ham chips:
This was a great start, the presentation being fantastic and a nice way to experience many different flavors.
We then started our dinner, paired with some white Bourgogne wine from Mâcon, that I completely forgot to photograph, to remember the name...
My appetizer (did I mention that we say entrée in French because it is the first course, while what we call entree in the US is the plat or plat principal?), was the foie gras de canard du Sud-Ouest aux fruits secs en gelée de pomme et Mâcon moeilleux, petite feuilles et brioche tréssée.
It was a foie gras from South-West with dried fruits in an apple gelée. It was served with some salad and a toasted brioche.
I loved the foie gras, but admit that I did not like the texture of the gelée that was a mix between the gelatinous part and the crunch of the dried fruits.
Jodi got the ravioles de champignons avec bouillon de foie gras or mushroom ravioles with a foie gras stock.
Know that, unlike me, Jodi does not like foie gras, so she was not sure she would like it. But she did! These ravioles that are like small ravioli, were delicious, thin, with the mushroom taste coming through. The foie gras stock was very good also, the foie gras taste not overpowering.
For the main dish, I got the volaille de Bresse ("Maison Miéral") en deux préparations: la poîtrine rôtie, jus au suc de cuisson tranché; la traditionnelle cuisse à la crème de morilles, risotto truffé.
It was a poultry from Bresse ("Maison Miéral") prepared in two ways: the breast was roasted and drizzled what I believe can be translated by the juice reduction; then the thigh with a morel cream. It was served with a truffled risotto.
This was a great dish, the poultry being perfectly cooked and moist. I just wished there was more of that morel sauce that was succulent. The truffled risotto was also perfect with it, the rice perfectly cooked and creamy.
Jodi got the Goujonnette de turbot au basilic et mini-ratatouille (Turbot fish with mini-ratatouille):
Then, we got a pre-dessert. Isn't it a nice concept? A dessert before dessert: that's my kind of thing! It was a crémeux de fromage Blanc avec une confiture d'abricot or creamy fromage Blanc with its apricot jam.
But it was not over! We got some mignardises ;
Orange sucettes (lollipop):
Gâteau Mâconnais or cookie from Mâcon:
Gâteau au caramel et noix or caramel and walnut cookie:
Idéal Mâconnais with nougatine, meringue, crème patissière:
Guimauve fraise or strawberry marshmallow:
Then came desserts! Jodi got the ice cream and sherbet selection. The flavors were: vanilla/coconut, strawberry, banana, exotic fruits and cassis.
On my side, I chose the entremet croustillant chocolat blond "Dulcey" aux Pommes, served with a salted caramel ice cream.
I picked it because we discovered the chocolat blond "Dulcey" few days before at Valrhona (check out the post here). It was good, but not at the level of their soufflé with limoncello.
And when we thought it was over, they brought us some chocolates...
This was a sublime dinner, Chef Gauchin definitely deserving his Michelin Star for a cuisine served in a nice and relaxed atmosphere, not stuffy at all. The service was also perfect, as expected in such place.
Restaurant Pierre
7 Rue Dufour
71000 Mâcon, France
Enjoy (I did)!
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My trip to Europe: Le Festival des Pizzas in Grenoble, France
Each time we go to Grenoble, we go to the Quartier Saint-Laurent aka Le Quartier des Italiens or Italian neighborhood, named because of the important Italian community there.
It is a nice area, located on one side if the Isère river and in the bottom of the Bastille that used to be a fortress, built in 1592 on the South end part of the Chartreuse mountain. It is now a ruin, with just few restaurants on top of the hill, where people like to go to get some fresh air, either walking or taking the "bulles", a spherical cable car.
We looked at all the pizzeria there to try to find one with Saint-Marcellin, a soft cheese made of cow's milk, named after a small town nearby where they produce this divine cheese. Unfortunately, we could not find it, so we opted for Le Festival des Pizzas, simply because they were the only one proposing a five cheese pizza!
That is what I ordered in fact. Cooked in a wood fire oven for a couple of minutes, it had emmental, goat, reblochon, blue and mozzarella cheese.
I really liked the crust, the outside being all puffed up
And the bottom having a nice char.
This is definitely the kind of pizza any cheese lover would like, as they were generous in the quantity of cheese.
Jodi ordered the goat cheese salad, as two pizza are too much.
Well, the salad was big...
My mom got the Atlantico pizza that had smoked salmon in it.
It was ok: I do not really like when smoked salmon is cooked because it releases the salt.
Overall it was pretty good. I would definitely go back, maybe to try their white pies.
Festival des Pizzas
74 Quai Perrière
38000 Grenoble, France
www.festival-des-pizzas-grenoble.fr
Festival des Pizzas
74 Quai Perrière
38000 Grenoble, France
www.festival-des-pizzas-grenoble.fr
Enjoy (I did)!
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My trip to Europe: Greg and Jerry's Burger and Fries in Grenoble, France
I am always curious to see how food is evolving in France, French cuisine being considered one of the best, and French people being very protective about it. Each time I go to France, I see a change: there are more and more fast food, whether it is kebab places (I saw one called "Batman Kebab"!), pizza with chains like Domino's or Pizza Hut, or fast food like MacDonald's, the latter being very popular with the younger crowd. I read recently that Burger King will make a comeback soon after more than a decade of absence, now that they see a profitable market, not anymore dominated by MacDonald's. KFC is also very popular there and plans to open many restaurants across the country.
Another phenomenon I noticed in the past few years is the emergence of delivery: when I was living in Paris, it was only limited to pizza and paella. Now, more and more, I see delivery for sushi, pizza (I even saw a pizza ATM!) and burgers.
In fact, I discovered Greg and Jerry's on a flyer at the hotel we were staying in. It is a burger place that serves ice cream from Ben & Jerry's, hence the name, that has been opened for more than six years, but relocated to that place two years ago.
Very colorful with its red banquette and stools, they try to transport you to the heart of America; normal considering that they only serve burgers. Geared towards carnivores (no veggie burger there), they propose a nice selection of specialty burgers, some similar to the one we have here, like the classic cheese that we tried:
Others reinvented with a French twist, like the Best Mountain, made with reblochon cheese, bacon and potatoes, or the Parisian, made with emmental, chèvre (goat) and blue cheese, that we also tasted.
The way it works is that you first order at the counter, and then, they will bring it to your table.
When we opened the box, we were a bit disappointed by what we saw, the bread having a sad look. It is like a sourdough bread, that was a bit dry. In fact, the proportion bread / meat patty was unbalanced in favor of the bread. The meat was good and did not have this grey color that the burgers at MacDonald's had when I went there. But again, too much (dry) bread for the quantity of meat.
The classic cheese had too much onions, salad and tomatoes, so I barely tasted the meat. However, we ordered the Parisian without lettuce and tomatoes and it was very good. They would use a better bread, this could be a killer sandwich.
With our burgers, we ordered Idaho potato fries that were cooked skin on, cooked all the way through and deliciously crispy.
They also had onion rings, that were good, but would have been even better if crispy. There, no special sauce besides mayo and ketchup.
If you do not like burgers, you can try their chicken nuggets.
I did try one: it was just ok.
Full at the end, we did not try any ice cream, that anyway would not have been that original... I think Greg and Jerry's was a nice try and they could definitely beat MacDonald's that is few steps away if they were changing their bread, as well as the price: the menu for a burger, fries and a drink being priced at 12 Euros (more than $17), making it expensive for what it is.
Greg & Jerry's
105, cours Jean Jaures
38000 Grenoble, France
Enjoy (I did)!
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My Trip to Europe: La Crêperie de Gordes in Grenoble, France
As we were having lunch with my friend Chrystelle, we decided to try La Crêperie de Gordes, get some crêpes. When I say crêpes, I may want to say galettes as they say in Bretagne where this delicious dish is coming from. The difference? A galette is made with buckwheat (Farine de sarrazin in French) and a crêpe with bread flour (Farine de froment).
La Crêperie de Gordes is a nice place: they have a big terrace, perfect when weather permits, as it did when we went, as well as a fantastic decor inside, the theme being the Alpes and ski rather than Bretagne region. They have for instance a replica of a ski slope full of playmobil, a popular children toy.
As well as an authentic cable car where two people can eat.
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On my side, I went for the three cheese one (the fromagère).
It was made of emmental, reblochon and blue cheese. I preferred this one over the one Jodi got: hers could have been better with the pear sliced in small pieces instead of half, and mixed with the blue cheese cream. Mine had lots of cheese, that was delightful. I have to mention that the galette itself was delicious, very slightly crispy.
Chrystelle ordered the Sicilienne, that had tuna in it and an egg on top. Pretty good.
For dessert, Jodi and I shared the beurre-sucre crêpe (butter and sugar), that is simple, but so good. Just smelling the butter makes it appetizing.
Chrystelle got the same but with lemon.
I tried it, but prefer the one we ordered.
With our meal, we ordered a bolée de cidre or some apple cider, a typical drink with such food.
This was a wonderful meal, not only because of the company, but also because the food was very good and at reasonable prices.
Crêperie de Gordes
3 Place de Gordes
38000 Grenoble, France
Enjoy (I did)!
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My trip to Europe: Le Marrakech, Moroccan restaurant in Grenoble, France
We went to Le Marrakech, a Moroccan restaurant, two years ago and were still talking about it, wanting to go back to eat some of their couscous or tagines. And we did come back this time, with my Dad, brother Hervé, sister in law Rosa and nephew Valentin.
This place is spectacular, not only because of the Moroccan cuisine, but also because of the fabulous decor that transports you to Morocco as soon as you enter the restaurant.
I went to Morocco 15 years ago, in a trip through the desert, with stops in Marrakech, with its crowded soukh, and Ouarzazatte, sleeping and eating under a tent, in the middle of the dunes. There, I discovered the Moroccan mint tea that is more flavorful than the packets you can buy in stores, and deliciously sweet, perfect to help with digestion. We in fact started and finished our meal with it.
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If you are not into tea, they also have some local wine bottles.
I got to try some appetizers that were delicious, such as the brick kefta, a phyllo like sheet rolled like a cigar, filled with ground meat:
Or the salad mechouiah, made with red peppers and tomatoes.
For the entrées, we picked the tagine kefta et oeuf, a tagine made with beef meatballs, cooked in a tomato sauce, with an egg in the middle.
As well as the couscous merguez, composed of semolina and vegetables (mainly carrots, with few chickpeas unfortunately):
And merguez, that are lamb sausages.
With it, you can add golden raisins or Harissa.
Both dishes were delicious and very flavorful. Very different, I cannot even pick one or the other.
To finish our meal, we decided to try an assortment of oriental pastries.
There was:
Ariba (made with almonds):
Makroudh (made with semolina and stuffed with dates):
Baklava:
Loukhoum (with a coconut layer that Jodi loved):
This was a nice way to end a wonderful evening. Le Marrakech is definitely a place to know if you are in Grenoble and want to experience Moroccan cuisine.
Enjoy (I did)!
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My trip to Europe: Le Tacos de Lyon in Grenoble, France - Mexican tacos made by the French?
Each time I was visiting my family in Grenoble, France, my nephew Valentin was mentioning this place called Le Tacos de Lyon. As at the same time he was talking about kebab, I was definitely intrigued, wondering how the French would make Mexican tacos and proposed to go there for lunch.
It is a small place located in a short street close to the center of the town. Very colorful, they serve food until 1am, the crowd being different depending on the time of the day. Mainly young as they offer very affordable prices making it very attractive to high schoolers and students, as well as people who want to eat something original.
First of all, do not say "a taco": it is "a tacos". Then, do not think you will be served Mexican tacos. There, not fish taco, no adobo chicken, no guacamole or pico de gallo. It is a tacos with flavors from Maghreb: the sour cream is replaced by a homemade cheese sauce to balance with the heat some of the sauces or ingredients can have; the sauces are, for the most part, made with Harissa, a hot chili pepper paste coming from Tunisia; and they offer choices of meat like merguez, a lamb sausage fairly common in North African cuisine. I met with the manager, Salah Dardouri, a very warm and welcoming guy, who explained to me that the idea comes from Lyon, considered by most as the capital of French gastronomy. Hence the name Le Tacos de Lyon. Then, they opened a first restaurant in Saint-Martin D'Hères in 2006 and since then have three restaurants in the area. Salah told me that, when they opened in Grenoble, lots of people told them that they were crazy, but he proved them that they were wrong. In fact, I saw plenty of restaurants serving this type of tacos, in Grenoble and elsewhere, and they seem to have a clientele.
You order at the counter and they will bring your order at the table. First, you pick your meat. You can choose one or two, depending on your appetite. In fact, if you are really hungry, you can order a mega tacos with a choice of four meats, but I am not sure that even Adam Richman (Man vs Food) would be able to finish it. They propose: merguez, ground beef, chicken nuggets or chicken cordon bleu. Then, you pick the sauce: white (similar to the one we have in the US, that they put on kebab), ketchup, mayo, aioli, algérienne, Marocaine, Samourai, etc. As mentioned above, the latter being prepared with Harissa.
On my side, I ordered the merguez with aioli.
The first bite, we realized that they were fries in it, bathed in a lot of sauce. Let me tell you: this first bite was divine. Very comforting, the fries were better in the sandwich than outside, although I got to try them separately and they were as I like them: skinny, not greasy, cooked all the way through and crispy. The merguez was also very good. Salah explained to me that usually, merguez are made with meat leftovers. Not there: they chose the meat before transforming it into a delicious, sometimes spicy sausage.
I admit that I could not finish, the sandwich being very filling.
So, as I mentioned before, we also tried the fries as my nephew wanted us to taste some of the original sauces they serve. We tried:
Samourai:
Andalouse:
Biggy burger (the most popular):
Homemade cheese (the same they put in the sandwich):
Tunisienne and Marocaine:
My favorite was the Biggy burger, probably because it is made with mayonnaise. But I admit that I liked the Tunisienne and Marocaine, because of the kick they had.
I really liked my meal at Le Tacos de Lyon: it was very good and comforting for an affordable price, even if it is far from a Mexican Taco. Know that if you do not like the tacos, they offer platters, as well as burgers.
Le Tacos de Lyon
4 Rue Brocherie
38000 Grenoble, France
www.letacosdelyon.fr
Le Tacos de Lyon
4 Rue Brocherie
38000 Grenoble, France
www.letacosdelyon.fr
Enjoy (I did)!
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And Remember: I Just Want To Eat!
My trip to Europe: Le Chaudron in Tournon, France
If you live in the New York and go to France, you might notice or I should say realize how spoiled we are there, places being opened daily and late at night if not 24/7. In France, it is not the case: supermarkets close at night; pharmacies are closed on the week end, except one per neighborhood for emergencies, and restaurants or boulangeries (bakeries) are closed once a week. If you are in Paris for instance, you will always find something opened, but in smaller cities, it might be a challenge. That is what we experienced when going to Tain L'Hermitage, a 6,000 souls city in the Drôme department, known for its wine and because Valrhona chocolatier has its Cité du Chocolat, a place where you can learn about chocolate and taste as many Valrhona chocolates as you want!
Nice place, with a beautiful terrace that would have been perfect if we did not expect rain...that never came.
The food there is elevated French or shall I say New French? Yes, they take classic ingredients such as foie gras or fish and create some interesting and mouth watering dishes.
At the start of our meal, their brought us some caillette, a specialty from the area that is made with different parts of the porc.
Then, I decided to go with the filets de rouget, a fish close to red snapper, but smaller and with a more pronounced taste.
It was served with two tapenades, one made with black olives, the other with green, for some added saltiness.
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The fish was perfectly cut and cooked.
Nice presentation and a great way to start a meal.
Nice presentation and a great way to start a meal.
Then, I got the millefeuille of salmon with a curry sauce, served with ravioles (sort of small ravioli, a traditional dish there).
The salmon was perfectly cooked, moist and deliciously flakey, with tuiles made with sesame seeds that gave a nice nuttiness to the dish.
The sauce was sublime, the curry being there for the color rather than the taste.
The sauce was sublime, the curry being there for the color rather than the taste.
Jodi ordered a cheese plate:
It had:
Fourme d'Ambert:
Picodon:
Coulomier:
Saint Felicien:
With it, she ordered a small salad that was a bit pricey (10 Euros).
For dessert, we tried:
The pomme au four (oven baked apple) with salted caramel:
The crème brûlée:
The mi-cuit au chocolat:
The dessert were very disappointing: the crème brûlée had a weird taste and the mi-cuit cake was overcooked. Only the oven baked apple was good.
With our coffee, they also gave us some small pieces of chocolate cake, a nice touch to finish a meal that would have been memorable if the dessert would have been at the same level as the rest of the food. Despite this, I really liked our meal at Le Chaudron: creative and delicious.
Le Chaudron
7 Rue Saint-Antoine
07300 Tournon-sur-Rhône, France
Enjoy (I did)!
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And Remember: I Just Want To Eat!