My trip to Europe: Gelato in Florence, Italy
You cannot go in Italy and not eat Gelato! We had gelato probably every day, but not at Eataly that was there, Via dei Martelli.
And not in the multiple gelateria we saw while walking in the street, some of them with a spectacular presentation...
One of the gelateria we found was in the opposite side of Eataly. It was called Caffè Del Battistero.
There, we simply ordered our flavors and the guy serving us (I wonder if he ever smiled in his life), gave us a huge gelato that ended up on our hands, the ice cream melting fairly quickly because of the outside temperature. Jodi got the coconut gelato:
And I got the hazelnut one:
The gelato was good, but I wish they asked us for the size we wanted, 10 euros being a bit expensive for what it was anyway.
Caffè Del Battistero
Via Martelli 13 Florence, Florence, Italy
But then, we went to Vivoli, a gelateria recommended by Jodi's friend Sabrina.
When we arrived, there was a group of tourists there, making me think that it is probably in lots of guide books. The way it works there is that first you pay and then you go to the gelato counter and order your flavor. Jodi ordered her coconut gelato that was deliciously creamy.
On my side, I did not order my usual hazelnut flavor, but a pear and caramel scoop that was amazing. Ok, I did not really taste the caramel, but the pear taste was incredible: I bet they make their ice cream with real pears there.
This was the best gelato we had in Florence and I truly recommend Vivoli. Know that they have a location at Macy's in New York. We went there, but I admit that it did not look that appealing and we did not see any tempting flavors. I guess I will stick with Grom...
Vivoli
Via Dell'Isola delle Stinche, 7r, 50122 Florence, Italy
The last gelateria I would mention is Carabé that I found surfing on the internet (it was recommended by Condé Nast Traveller).
There, Jodi ordered two scoops: coconut and chocolate.
Although not as creamy as Vivoli, I thought it was pretty good.
On my side, I ordered the pear gelato:
I liked it, but, again, Vivoli was better.
Carabé
Via Ricasoli, 60, Florence, Italy
So, do not miss out on gelato in Florence and if you can, go to Vivoli: it is definitely worth it!
Enjoy (I did)!
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My trip to Europe:Trattoria Sostanza, communal dining in Florence, Italy
After few days in Florence, it was time to go back home. Florence is such a beautiful city, that even people who don't like art would appreciate it.
So for our last dinner, we went to Trattoria Sostanza that was, after Trattoria Mario, our second experience with a restaurant that serves food on communal table. We heard about this restaurant after doing some research on the good places to eat in Florence. One of the recommended dishes was the buttered chicken. I was for sure going to try it!
For dinner, they have two sittings: 7:30pm and 9pm. We decided to go to the earlier one and showed up 10 minutes before, just in case they opened the door in advance to hungry customers. As we arrived, there was already a small group of people waiting.
7:30pm, they opened their doors. We did not have a reservation and I was scared they would not have any availability. But, luckily, after just a couple if minutes, they brought us to a table where there was seated an American Family, as well as a Belgian couple.
7:50pm: all tables are taken (they sit approximately 35 guests).
Few minutes after, they brought us some bread; no bread basket: they simply put it in front of you with their bare hands, making the family next to us talk...
As the menu was in Italian and Jodi and I do not speak the language, I asked for an English version: they did not have any, forcing them to describe dishes to tourists. But hey, this is part of the experience!
To start, I decided to try one of their Italian beers.
And we ordered some delicious salami:
For her entree, Jodi ordered the tortellini al burro or tortellini with butter:
It was very good, the amount of butter not being stranger to that. But for sure, these pasta seemed store bought.
On my side, I got the buttered chicken:
I admit that, when I ordered it, I was a bit anxious, because everybody was ordering either the chicken or the bistecca a la Fiorentina that is simply a grilled T-bone steak you can find all over the city. I did not try it, preferring to try more traditional dishes.
When the buttered chicken arrived, it was still sizzling, a delightful smell of butter emanating from the very hot skillet. I did not try the chicken first, but rather dipped a piece of bread in the sauce that was simply butter; and I mean a lot if butter. This was divine. Of course, I could not not notice the envious looks from my neighbors. The American family ordered the chicken too, for three people and it came in a larger skillet, but they served the chicken in dishes, so they had much less butter than me, hence more envious looks on their part...
The piece of bread dipped in the butter was delicious, but when I tried the chicken, I was in heaven: it was so good! Perfectly cooked, it was moist and I noticed a nice slight salty taste on the surface of the breast that was breaded with eggs, flour, salt and pepper. They probably sear it for several minutes before cooking it in the oven.
This is a fantastic dish, a bit pricey (18 euros) as there was no side, but so delicious that I would definitely reorder it, even if it is a heart attack on a plate.
I still had some room for dessert. We decided to go for their signature dessert:
It was made of very small strawberries (first time I saw them), meringue, chocolate and whipped cream. It was very good: not too sweet, not too heavy (although Jodi would say that my conception of heavy might be different from anybody else...). At 10 euros, this dessert was also pricey.
I really liked my meal at Sostanza and would definitely go back to try some other specialties, although I found the prices to be on the high side. The communal table is also a fun social experience that clearly depends on who you are sitting with. But anyway, you do not have to talk to people and can just enjoy the meal. And I enjoyed, I did!
Trattoria Sostanza
Via del Porcellana
25/R, 50123 Florence, Italy
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My trip to Europe: Osteria Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy
I admit that I was disappointed in a way, as I was expecting a square with a park and the statue in the middle, and not a parking lot and small shops for tourists...
Right after we sat, they brought us some bread and tapenade.
The bread being unsalted, it was perfect with the tapenade.
Then, we went for a tomato and mozzarella salad.
But the star of the dish were the meatballs: they were succulent, moist and tasty. This is definitely a dish I recommend.
We also tried the Minestra di Farro or spelt bean soup:
I ordered the small size and did not expect to get a large bowl.
It was also very good and very comforting. I also recommend that dish that I finished without any problem.
When we finished, they brought us some cherries.
We definitely had a wonderful meal at Osteria Santo Spirito, a place that I definitely recommend.
Osteria Santo Spirito
Piazza Santo Spirito, 19 r, Florence, Italy
http://www.osteriasantospirito.it
Enjoy (I did)!
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My trip to Europe: Caffè Scudieri in Florence, Italy
After our dinner at Trattoria ZàZà, we decided to stop at Caffè Scudieri, to check their pastries. It is a big place with a large terrace and plenty of pastries to try.
We chose to sit inside instead of at the terrace.
We decided to order couple of pastries, as well as a tea for Jodi
And a macchiato for me.
It was good, but not as good as the one at Caffè Gilli that was tastier.
Then, the pastries came, and I was ready...
We decided to order:
A chocolate eclair:
A baba:
And a cannoli:
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My trip to Europe: Trattoria ZàZà in Florence, Italy
We decided to go back to the Piazza del Mercato Centrale after our meal at Trattoria Mario, as we saw that there were plenty of restaurants, thinking that they probably source their ingredients from there. At that time, the market was closing down and the market crowd was gone, replaced by tourists looking for some amazing food.
We looked around and noticed a very crowded place called Trattoria ZàZà. That place, opened in 1977 by Stefano Bondi, is huge. They sat us in a small, quiet area, away from the noise.
We were ready for a feast and were not disappointed. Problem was: what do we order? The menu had so many mouth watering dishes that we were not sure...
So we started with the San Lorenzo "Tagliere", a plate of prosciutto, salami, stracchino (so good and creamy) and pecorino cheese, olives. This was a big plate for sure, but so good, especially the cheese.
We also tried a sampler of three traditional soups:
It was composed of:
- Ribolita (top left): a vegetable and bread soup.
- Pappa al pomodoro (bottom left): tomato, basil, leeks and bread soup.
- Bean soup with barley.
Then, Jodi got the Insalata Campagnola, a salad made with pecorino cheese, prosciutto and pears:
On my side, I ordered the linguine alle Vongole, desperate to find one that topped the grainy one from Borgo Antico.
It was just ok, not having enough white wine sauce. At least, the clams were well cleaned.
We did not have dessert as we had other plans and, anyway, needed a little walk after that feast...I certainly recommend Trattoria ZàZà for a good dinner. Their bistecca alla fiorentina looked fantastic and I would have gone back, I would have probably tried it!
Enjoy (I did)!
Trattoria ZàZà
Piazza del Mercato Centrale, 26, 50123 Florence, Italy
http://www.trattoriazaza.it
My trip to Europe: Il Salimbecco in Florence, Italy
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My trip to Europe: Mamma Gina in Florence, Italy
Finding a restaurant in Florence is not a problem. The question is where to find a good one. There are of course guide books or sites like Trip Advisor, but the best is to get it either from locals, or from people who lived there. That is what happened with Mamma Gina: it was recommended by Jodi's friend Sabrina, who used to live there.
Mamma Gina is located few steps from the Ponto Vecchio, the famous arch bridge re-built in 1345 across the Arno river, that was in fact the only bridge not destroyed in WWII.
It has interesting architecture, with its shops built along the arch; shops that use to be occupied by butchers, and now by expensive jewelers.
The service there was good, that was, from what we experienced so far, surprising...Anyway, Mamma Gina was definitely a good recommendation and I am glad we had the opportunity to try it.
My trip to Europe: Trattoria Mario, communal dining in Florence, Italy
We went to trattoria Mario thanks to a recommendation from Jodi's friend, Missy. This place, that is only open for lunch and does not take any reservations, is located near the Mercato Centrale or Central Market, where one can either buy food (inside) or bags and souvenirs, outside.
Few minutes later, they opened the door and told us to get seated at specific spots, mentioning that the kitchen would only open at 12pm.
At 12:05pm, the place was full and we heard them telling people that the wait would be thirty minutes.
One particularity of this place is that it is communal seating: that was our first experience in this type of setup and we ended up eating with two regulars who knew the staff so well that one of them helped himself by grabbing some bread next to the small kitchen. They told us that they come on a quasi daily basis, because the food is as good as the one cooked by Grandma.
But let me restate how communal it is: imagine a table of two we are used to and put four people on it.
Trattoria Mario
50123 Florence, Italy
My trip to Europe: Italian desserts at Caffè Gilli in Florence, Italy
After our average dinner at Borgo Antico, we decided to treat ourselves for some good Italian pastries and tried Caffè Gilli, a cafe opened in 1733 by the Gilli family, that moved since then in different part of the city.
Caffè Gilli is a beautiful place that combines a patisserie and a tea room that had a very elegant decor.
Jodi decided to order a tea
For pastries, we went for:
the tiramisu (of course, we could not not have it Italy):
It was delicious, very creamy with a nice amount of coffee.
The baba:
Very good, the cake was perfect and there was a nice amount of rum in it.
The cannoli:
Although I liked the ricotta filling, it was a miss, the shell being soggy.
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My trip to Europe: Borgo Antico in Florence, Italy
We decided to go to Borgo Antico, located in Piazza di Santo Spirito.
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My trip to Europe: Il Caminetto in Florence, Italy
For our first dinner in Florence, we did not have any plan and decided to look for a restaurant near the Piazza Del Duomo, where the impressive cathedral, built in 1296 through 1436 was standing.
But I was already sure we would dine there because of few dishes I saw and the fact that they make their own pasta, not that it is uncommon in Florence.
My trip to Europe: Le Festival des Pizzas in Grenoble, France
Festival des Pizzas
74 Quai Perrière
38000 Grenoble, France
www.festival-des-pizzas-grenoble.fr
Italian dinner Family style at Carmine's in NYC, New York
There are institutions in NYC and Carmine's is definitely one. It is not just experiencing some good Italian food, but also eating it family style, like you would do at home, sharing huge plates of delicious food, where taste matters more than presentation. So we decided to go there with the Kroners, our Danish friends. Good that we had a reservation, because it was packed, unexpected for a Wednesday night!


Italian lunch at Bricco in Hell's Kitchen, NYC,NY
And probably the focaccia bread they brought to the table (I found it stale):
When I looked at the menu, I could not miss the Polipo Alia Griglia or grilled octopus:
I also tried the Melanzane In Carrozza or baked eggplant and mozzarella that was delicious.
For the entree, I chose the Fettuccine Integrali Alla Contadina:

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The Gotham West Market - part 5/5: Court Street Grocers

Parm in Nolita, NYC, New York
On a Sunday afternoon, we were walking in Nolita, looking for a place to eat when we passed in front of Parm, on Mulberry St. We were so pleased to see it that we both shouted "Paaarm!" at the same time. Yes, this place was on our wish list for a while, since we saw their baked ziti featured on the TV show Unique Eats. So, I guess at this point you know what we would order...
This place, opened in 2011, is an offshoot of Torrisi, located few steps away. It is a small place:
Bar and delivery takeout at the entrance:
Small dining room in the back:
With an open kitchen where you can see the Chef and crew prepare the dishes.
We decided to sit at the bar, overlooking a part of the kitchen, watching the magic happen.
The menu is not that large, that is understandable for such a small restaurant. Anyway, I prefer a small menu well executed rather than a large one poorly delivered. At Parm, they propose few vegetables, salads, sandwiches or this mouth watering baked ziti.
You are probably wondering what the big deal is. Well, first of all, after baking the ziti, they fry them in a pan, giving to the sides a nice crunch.
Second, there is a lot of cheese: mozzarella and ricotta.
Last there is a lot of tomato sauce, so it is not dry like baked ziti can be in some restaurants.
So, definitely, this dish is worth the trip and no wonder why our plate was empty in a matter of seconds.
We also decided to try one of their sandwiches and hesitated between the eggplant Parmesan and the meatball one. We picked the later.
We chose to go with the hero bread over the roll or plate (served with a salad or ziti).

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Fortunato Brothers, Italian Bakery in Williamburg, Brooklyn, NY
So we sat in the seating area, waiting for our tasting, when we noticed a cat sitting (or shall I say sleeping) next to our table.
His name is Rocco: he is the bakery's owners cat and you might see him either sleeping, walking around, or coming to you to get pet or to play.
Biagio served us a combination of pastries that were mouth watering. Small size though, when possible. I have to say that I love when bakeries offer pastries in a smaller size, as it allows us to try several.
There was also a Napoleon:
Similar to the French mille-feuilles, I was glad to see that it had icing and not sugar on top (the best part) and crème pâtissière inside.
The only problem: too small: it was so good that I would have eaten several of them!
Next was the Sfogliatelle (Italian for small, thin leaves/layers):
What is interesting about this pastry is the multiple layers that wrap around a filling made of ricotta, almond flour and candied fruits.
I liked it, but admit that, with a similar dough, I preferred the lobster tail:
It is bigger, but lighter.
In fact, this pastry was invented by Italian-Americans in the 1900s. So, the same dough, but, inside, the filling is made of a cream similar to whipped cream.
Then we got a cream puff that was glazed with a thick layer of dark chocolate.
Inside was a vanilla custard that was delicious and had a perfect consistency.
Following was a classic: cannoli.
It was very good: the ricotta filling was fantastic, not too sweet, and the shell tasted fresh and was crispy. It was my second favorite after the baba.
Last was a cookie called Deliciosa.
It was made with a moca cream. I admit that, although I love coffee, I did not like it.
These pastries could not be eaten without a shot of Italian espresso.
You may think that it was it, but it was not: Biagio proposed to bring home whatever we wanted to try. As Jodi put it, it was like bringing a vampire to a blood bank...
So I went in front of the display and simply (?) asked for some Italian cookies.
So our visit was followed by a cookie tasting.
Rainbow cookies:
Pignoli:
With the equivalent made with pistachio:
Biscotti:
And various cookies.
My favorite were the rainbow cookies and pignoli, maybe because I love any cookie or pastry made with almonds.
So, Fortunato Brothers was definitely a nice discovery of an Italian bakery that seems to stay true to itself, serving customers with traditional Italian specialties, all homemade. Not to mention not too sweet, allowing me to try all of these without falling into a sugar coma!
Enjoy (I did)!

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Da Marcella Taverna in Greenwich Village, NYC, New York
Although I did not really taste the fact that it was cooked under a wood fire, I liked this dish for the simple reason that it was...simple...and let the eggplant shine. Often, eggplant parmesan tastes too much of the breading rather than the eggplant, but not at Da Marcella Taverna.
The meatballs and eggplant were served with a red wine: Cannonau di Sardegna 2011 "Filieri" - Cantina Dorgali, that was fresh, tasty, with a medium intensity.
Then we got to try a pasta dish. It was the tagliatelle artigianali "Setaro" Al ragu'Bolognese classico, Manuel's family recipe.
They import the pasta from Italy, Setaro being the brand. I have never seen such pasta: uncooked, instead of being smooth, they are rough, allowing the pasta sauce to stick to it when cooked. But no worries: it was not rough to my palate and was definitely my favorite of the dinner.
That ragu, that they cook for few hours, was succulent: rustic, not watery with a bold taste. Eating it with a piece of bread would even be fine for me: bring me the pot!!!
It was paired with a red wine: Langhe Nebbiolo 2011 "Elvio Pertinace" from the region of Piemonte.
The last entree was the braised beef short rib "Al Barolo" served with a creamy polenta.
These short ribs were fantastic: they literally fell of the bone. Apparently, they first pan sear it and then cook it for more than two hours in sofrito (garlic, onions, pepper...). Very tasty, I truly appreciated the fact that it was not too fatty. The creamy polenta (the brand used is Berreta) that was served with it was sublime: very creamy, it was not grainy at all and had a slight buttery taste, although, surprisingly, they only use milk.
The short ribs were served with my favorite wine of the evening: a Cabernet montepulciano 2011 "Integolo" -Sada from Toscany.
Of course we could not have left without trying some desserts. First was the panna cotta:
Perfectly set, it definitely had hints of anise and vanilla.
The tiramisu:
A classic: I always say that you can measure the quality of an Italian restaurant by trying its tiramisu. This one was perfect: creamy, with the right balance of coffee and mascarpone, and perfectly soaked lady fingers.
The ricotta cheesecake.
Another perfect dessert: not dry, not too dense and not too heavy.
So I would pick desserts in this order: tiramisu, cheesecake, panna cotta. They were deliciously paired with a Moscato d'Asti 2011 "Cascina dell Perliche" from Piemonte. I love muscat wine for its sweetness and this one was sparkling.
This was a wonderful evening and the food was delicious, comforting for the most part, definitely representing the concept of neighborhood kitchen that the owner wanted to create. This is clearly a place to know!
Enjoy (I did)!

Hot Dog Pizza at Ribalta in NYC, New York

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The Brick Pizzeria in Hoboken, NJ
I decided to try their homemade mint lemonade.
It was delicious, not too sweet, with the right amount of mint, making this drink quite refreshing.
With it, they brought us some olive oil with basil, where they added a nice amount of parmesan.
We ate it with some bread.
Looking at the menu, they have interesting dishes such as their own version of chicken wings, made with siracha sauce. They also have salad, pasta and pizza.
For the appetizer, we went for their caprese bruschetta:

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